Les Menuires is often known as a modern and efficient ski resort — and it certainly is — but many visitors overlook just how much it offers the all‑round winter enthusiast. With direct access to Les 3 Vallées, the largest linked ski area in the world, some 600 kilometres of pistes are waiting to be explored. Yet it would be a shame to visit the Vallée des Belleville only for skiing. There are countless other ways to enjoy the snow: peaceful snowshoe walks through untouched landscapes, scenic cross‑country routes, or simply a gentle winter stroll through the forests. We swapped our skis for snowshoes and slim cross‑country skis to discover a different side of Les Menuires.

Snowshoeing around Les Menuires

Our adventure begins with a snowshoe walk led by Gaetan, an enthusiastic guide from the École du Ski Français (ESF). The mountains are essentially his back garden, and he knows exactly where to find the most beautiful spots.

We park near the lovely Notre Dame de la Vie church — the perfect excuse for a little culture before heading into the snow. This 17th‑century church, located in the hamlet of Saint‑Martin‑de‑Belleville, is famous for its rare baroque altarpiece: richly carved, lavishly gilded and typical of the Savoie region. It’s a peaceful oasis in an otherwise lively valley, well worth a quiet moment before setting off.

Learning the basics of snowshoeing

Before we start climbing, Gaetan gives us a refresher on snowshoe technique. We’ve done it before, but a reminder never hurts. Today’s key principles:

• Walk like a penguin. It sounds amusing, but it’s essential. Snowshoes make you wider, so keep your legs slightly apart to avoid clipping the edges together.

• Use your poles. They help with balance and give extra power on the uphill. Plant each pole level with the opposite foot for maximum stability.
• Use the heel lift. Most modern snowshoes have a metal bar under the heel. Flip it up on steep climbs to ease the strain on your calves and save energy.
• Keep your grip. The metal crampons under the snowshoes bite into icy surfaces. On descents, land on your heels so the rear teeth do the work; on climbs, drive the front teeth firmly into the snow.

A walk to the authentic hamlet of La Loy

And off we go. We leave civilisation behind and begin the ascent. The sun is blazing, the snow crunches underfoot, and the air is crystal clear. Within minutes we’re peeling off layers. Gaetan chats away about local wildlife and plants as we find our rhythm.

In the distance we spot a few chamois dancing effortlessly across a steep, snowy slope. Even Gaetan, who sees them regularly, pauses to admire them through his binoculars. The silence in this part of the mountains is almost overwhelming — and utterly wonderful.

Eventually we reach La Loy, a tiny hamlet of old wooden barns and stone farm buildings, some still in use. It feels as though time has stood still. We hop across a narrow stream that disappears beneath the snow and reappears further down. With Gaetan’s steady hand, we manage to keep our feet dry.

A little later we cross a ski piste. A father and his young son whizz past, laughing. The boy is barely four, yet skis as if he was born on the slopes. In the Netherlands children learn to ride bikes early; here they grow up on skis.

A romantic dinner at Chez Pépé Nicolas

After a few invigorating hours in the mountain air, we return to the car. Gaetan drops us at our hotel, where we freshen up for a special evening. We’ve booked dinner at the charming Chez Pépé Nicolas, an authentic mountain restaurant perfectly positioned between Les Menuires and Val Thorens. The décor is warm and rustic, with wood, traditional fabrics and a cosy Alpine atmosphere. It’s a brilliant lunch spot during a ski day, but in the evening it becomes something truly magical — intimate, romantic and absolutely delightful.

Cross‑country skiing in Les Menuires

The next morning brings a new challenge. Gaetan collects us again, this time with long, narrow skis: we’re going cross‑country skiing. The sport blends the elegance of ice skating with the effort of running. Our destination is Plan de l’Eau, a peaceful area with beautifully prepared tracks.

Mastering the technique

We’ve tried cross‑country skiing before, usually with clumsy results. Today, for the first time, we get proper instruction. Gaetan drills the essentials into us:

• Shift your weight. The key to efficient skiing is transferring your weight fully from one ski to the other. The weighted ski must press firmly into the snow for grip.
• Use the diagonal stride. In classic style, arms and legs move diagonally, just like walking. Left arm with right foot, and vice versa.

• Finish the pole push. Use your wrist to swing the pole backwards at the end of the push for extra momentum.
• Look ahead. Not at your skis. Looking towards the horizon helps with balance and direction.
• Glide and relax. Let the skis do the work. The longer the glide, the more efficient — and enjoyable — the movement.

Our cross‑country adventure

The sun is out again and conditions are perfect, but we quickly discover how demanding cross‑country skiing really is. On the flat sections we manage reasonably well, though finding a steady rhythm is tricky. Descending is another story — cue several tumbles.

“Look ahead!” Gaetan shouts every time we stare at our feet. It helps, but we still end up in the snow now and then. Thankfully it’s soft, and the scenery is stunning.

Anyone who thinks cross‑country skiing is for pensioners is mistaken. It’s incredibly intense. Sweat drips down our faces despite the cold. You need serious stamina to keep going for hours. Our respect for biathletes grows enormously — imagine skiing at full speed with a heart rate of 200, then lying down to shoot five perfect targets before sprinting off again.

Occasionally we get it right. We glide smoothly, find the rhythm, and feel almost professional. Just as we’re starting to believe we might qualify for the Olympics, a group of six‑year‑olds zooms past us, laughing. We stare in disbelief, lose our balance and fall over again. Their giggles echo down the track.

After a few exhausting but thoroughly enjoyable hours, we reach the car park. Tired but satisfied, we take off our skis. Our muscles certainly know they’ve been working. We thank Gaetan for his patience and guidance.

Wellness and a stylish finale

Time for warmth and relaxation. We head to La Belle Vie, the brand‑new wellness centre in Saint‑Martin‑de‑Belleville. The name — “The Good Life” — is spot on.

We slip into our swimwear and explore the facilities: large indoor pools, saunas, steam rooms and peaceful relaxation areas. Everything feels fresh and modern. The highlight is outside — a steaming outdoor whirlpool with glorious views of the snow‑covered Alps.

Later we enjoy dinner at the excellent restaurant in the Lodji Hotel, known for its refined cuisine. It’s the perfect place to end our winter adventure in the Vallée des Belleville. Les Menuires is so much more than a ski resort.

We visited Les Menuires at the invitation of the tourist offices of Saint Martin de Belleville and Les Menuires. This blog has been written independently and objectively, based entirely on our own impressions.

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