This summer hike from Les Menuires to Lac du Lou is exactly what you need when you want to escape the crowds. From the modern Hotel Higalik, we walk through quiet mountain villages, past grazing cows and over the green slopes of La Masse. Along the way, we enjoy panoramic views of the surroundings from the mountain peaks. The crystal-clear Lac du Lou is our final destination. The icing on the cake: a beer in the sunshine on the terrace of the mountain refuge, followed by a Savoyard cheese fondue. Sounds good? Read on and discover how this journey will make your summer unforgettable.
Les Menuires in summer
Les Menuires. Known for skiing, lifts, snow cannons and hot chocolate. In winter, this is a bustling ski village. Ski schools gather in the squares. Tourists zigzag across the slopes. Everywhere you hear music and voices in all languages.
But now it’s summer. And that’s a completely different experience. The mountains exude tranquillity. The lifts stand still. The ski slopes have transformed into green alpine meadows. The air is warm and fragrant with pine and wildflowers. We’re here in July. The sun shines early and stays late. The village is quiet, but not deserted. Hikers, mountain bikers and a handful of locals share the mountain in a relaxed atmosphere. No rush, no crowds. Just fresh mountain air and time to enjoy nature.
Vallée des Belleville
Les Menuires is situated in the Vallée des Belleville. A long, deep valley with charming villages, grazing cows and rugged mountain peaks. This is the hinterland of the famous Les Trois Vallées ski area. But in summer, it becomes more intimate. More authentic.
The valley runs from Saint-Martin-de-Belleville all the way to Val Thorens at the back. Along the way, you pass small hamlets with stone houses, wooden balconies and flowers in the windows. And hiking routes are everywhere. From easy forest paths to challenging treks above 2,500 metres.
What attracts us here is the contrast. The power of the mountains and the simplicity of being outdoors. You don’t need much to feel good: a pair of sturdy shoes, a bottle of water and the will to walk.
Hotel Higalik
Our starting point is Hotel Higalik. A modern 4-star hotel at the entrance to Les Menuires. Built in chalet style, with plenty of wood. Inside awaits a stylish interior. Our room is spacious and bright, with views of the valley. Unfortunately, we have no time to enjoy the indoor swimming pool, sauna and Turkish bath. We also don’t dine at the hotel. We do that in the centre of Les Menuires, at Brasserie des Belleville. There, Estelle from the Office du Tourisme gives us the latest tips for our hike from Les Menuires to Lac du Lou.
The next morning, a generous breakfast awaits. Fresh bread, local cheeses, yoghurt, fruit, good coffee. Everything we need to start our hike from Les Menuires to Lac du Lou with energy. It’s very quiet in the hotel. We are the only guests at breakfast, and few other tables are set. In winter, it will be different here. The hotel is situated at the end of the slope, which is ideal.
We depart around 10 o’clock. Our rucksacks filled with provisions. The hotel is happy to fill our thermos flasks and provides an extensive packed lunch. The sun is already high. The sky is deep blue. We feel a tingle of excitement: this is going to be a beautiful day.
Our hike from Les Menuires to Lac du Lou
The route we are going to walk today is called Hotel Higalik au Refuge du Lou (available with a paid subscription to Komoot). The total distance is just over ten kilometres. The app says we’ll reach our destination in about four hours. But we’re taking our time.
We leave the hotel and slowly make our way upward through the village. Via several grass paths, we walk towards Le Levassaix. An old hamlet hidden amongst the modern buildings of Les Menuires. Here, no concrete or glass, but traditional chalets of stone and wood. Everything breathes history. On the way, a group of riders passes us. They sit cheerfully chatting on their horses.
We hear only our footsteps and occasionally the soft lowing of cows. The sun shines brightly, but the wind provides pleasant cooling. The path leads us further towards Le Bettaix. Along the way, we pass small streams and flowering fields. Le Bettaix is small and charming. Some chalets, an old barn, silence. The small river Doron flows through the village. The flower boxes on the bridge railings are filled with colourful blooms. We see nobody; here it seems as if time stands still. The view of the mountain Le Teurrre is beautiful from everywhere.
A small problem!
Then the real climbing begins. And an unexpected problem arises. The route on Komoot points a straight line upward. Do we need to cover a section with a chairlift? We see no lift, only densely overgrown bushes. How to proceed? Fortunately, Estelle quickly provides clarity via a message. Walk back a bit to the signpost and from there climb towards Les Yvôses. Said and done. After a while, the path splits. Several narrow paths wind upward. We try to stay as close as possible to the straight line we see on the Komoot app. Luckily, that works reasonably well. The path becomes steeper, but the view rewards us at every turn. We look out over the valley and see Les Menuires far below us.
At the top, we take a longer break. The view is spectacular. To the left, the peaks of the Vanoise, to the right, the green slopes of La Masse. In the distance, we see the glaciers around Val Thorens. Closer by, many cows, looking at us warily. Then they graze on imperturbably. We don’t need to worry about the route any further. We’re back neatly on the Komoot line. And Lac du Lou is now also indicated on the yellow signs.
Walking across the slopes
We cross the slopes of La Masse. This is where we’ll be skiing next winter. Now we walk through green meadows. It feels almost surreal. The grass rustles in the wind. We hear cowbells in the distance. Many cows here, they block our hiking path. We carefully walk past them; they refuse to give up their position.
A bit further on, we walk under the lifts of La Masse. Two technicians hoist themselves into a safety harness and climb nimbly up one of the poles. High above us, they tinker with the lift mechanism. Because next winter, everything must be in perfect order to safely bring skiers up the mountain.
Slowly we descend. The path winds between rocks, green slopes and colourful flowers. Occasionally we catch a glimpse of Lac du Lou. It’s still a bright blue speck in the depths, but we’re getting closer. We quicken our pace.
Lac du Lou
And then we’re there: Lac du Lou. The largest mountain lake in Vallée des Belleville is clear and blue. Surrounded by rocks, grass and wildflowers. No boats on the water, but several hikers and a few daredevils who wade into the ice-cold water.
A hiking path runs around the lake. That circuit is a nice conclusion to our hike from Les Menuires to Lac du Lou. At a small pier, we take off our shoes and cool our feet in the water. The sun burns, but the lake remains fresh. No thought of taking a dip, much too cold. Some sections are narrow and rocky. We negotiate those passages with hands and feet. After half an hour, we’ve completed our circuit. Time to check in!
Refuge du Lac du Lou
The refuge du Lac du Lou is situated on the edge of the lake. A beautiful stone building, simple but cosy. The sun-drenched terrace is pleasantly busy. Many hikers, but also families with young children. They came by car and then took a short walk to the lake.
Inside, the owners welcome us warmly. We put our rucksacks in the dormitory, freshen up a bit and go back outside. We choose a spot on the terrace. We’ve earned a beer and a cheese platter. We feel our legs, our backs. But mostly, we feel happy. The hike from Les Menuires to Lac du Lou was a beautiful start to three days in the mountains.
Cheese fondue
Later that evening, we sit down for dinner. A real Savoyard cheese fondue. Melted mountain cheese, crusty bread, gherkins. And, of course, a glass of local wine to go with it. We talk with other hikers. Everyone tells about their journey, their route, their plans. There’s an atmosphere of camaraderie. Nobody is here for luxury. We’re here for the real thing.
Around nine o’clock, we crawl under the blankets. Our dormitory has room for eight people. Tonight, we share the room with two French men of our age. They’re already asleep when we get into bed. Softly, we nestle into our sheet bags. We’re tired, satisfied and ready for tomorrow. Because then we’ll walk further into the mountains. A two-day hiking tour through the mountains of Vallée des Belleville awaits us. Again, we’ll spend the night in mountain refuges. But tonight, we sleep deeply. With in our heads the rustling of the lake, the view from Les Yvôses and the taste of mountain cheese. The mountains have momentarily disconnected us from the rest of the world. And that feels good.
FAQs about the summer hike from Les Menuires to Lac du Lou
Les Menuires is situated in the French Alps. The village is at an altitude of 1,850 metres in the Belleville valley, between Val Thorens and Saint-Martin-de-Belleville. In winter, Les Menuires forms part of the Les 3 Vallées ski area.
The hike starts opposite Hotel Higalik. This hotel is situated at the entrance to Les Menuires.
The hike is just over 10 kilometres in total. The route follows forest and mountain paths that are well maintained. There are no difficult passages. However, there are 700 metres of altitude to climb.
No, there is no route description for this hike. However, the route can be found on Komoot (available with a paid subscription). It's notable that part of the route goes as a straight line. Or, as Komoot indicates, "a segment over unknown terrain". Just before you reach this section, you'll see a yellow signpost with the text "Les Yvôses en Col de la Fenêtre". Follow the Les Yvôses route until you reach the top of the hill. There, Komoot picks up the route again. You'll also find signs pointing towards Refuge Lac du Lou.
The paths are generally good, without tricky rocky sections. The hike is challenging because of the climbing. There are 700 metres of altitude to overcome. For an experienced hiker with good fitness, this route is perfectly doable.
We didn't find any opportunity to eat or drink in the two small villages along the way. Therefore, bring sufficient provisions. Ensure you have enough water, especially during sunny and warm days.
Yes, from the centre of Les Menuires there is a hiking path of just over 4 kilometres directly to the lake. It's also possible to come by car. Then it's a short walk to the lake.
If you stay overnight in the mountain refuge, dinner is included in the price. It's not possible to only dine at the refuge. However, there is a lunch menu with hot dishes (between 12 and 3 pm).
Yes, it's possible to stay overnight at refuge Lac du Lou (half-board). Reservation is required. There are 33 beds, divided over five dormitories. It's not possible to book a private room. It's mandatory to use your own sheet bag or sleeping bag. Blankets and pillows are provided. Showers and toilets are shared. A token is needed for showering (payable). For more information, visit the website of the mountain refuge.
We visited the Vallée des Belleville at the invitation of Office du Tourisme Les Menuires. The content of this blog has been independently and objectively compiled based on our own impressions.
