We stand on the platform, surrounded by mountains. The air here in eastern Switzerland is crisp and fresh. In the distance, a red spot grows larger. It’s the famous red train of the Rhaetian Railway. This railway company is the lifeline of the canton of Graubünden. Today marks the start of our adventure on the rails. We travel through a landscape that’s on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. This promises a remarkable journey through the Alps.

The Freedom of the Swiss Travel Pass

Before boarding, we take out our Swiss Travel Pass. This is our golden key for these trips. We don’t have to queue for every ride. We simply hop on the train we want. What’s great is that this pass is more than just a train ticket. It also grants free entry to museums across Switzerland. Local buses and some boats are included too. It gives us the freedom to get off wherever we like. We let go of strict plans and follow the tracks.

A Journey Back in Time: From Davos to Filisur

Our real discovery begins at Davos Platz station. Today, we leave the modern express trains behind. Something very special awaits us. We take a ride on a historic train to Filisur. The carriages date back to the 1920s. They have been lovingly restored by the Rhaetian Railway. As soon as we step inside, the scent of the past surrounds us. Polished wood and gleaming brass take us back in time.

We settle into first class, sinking into deep, comfortable armchairs. It feels almost like sitting in a moving living room. For the brave, there’s another option. Open panoramic carriages travel with this train. Here, you literally sit outside while the train moves. You feel the wind on your face and hear the metal wheels on the rails. It’s an incredible experience, but a chilly one. The cold mountain breeze reminds us we’re high in the Alps.

The train departs and soon we enter the Zügen Gorge. This is a deep ravine with a river raging far below. The journey lasts about forty minutes, but every minute is worth it. We cross the famous Wiesner Viaduct. This structure is massive, and the depth is breathtaking. Looking out the window, we see the stone arches disappear beneath us.

The engineering behind this railway is a true masterpiece. We pass through a series of short tunnels one after another. Each time we emerge from darkness, a new panorama awaits. We never know what we’ll see around the next bend. This makes the journey through the rugged mountains endlessly exciting.

The Landwasser Express to the Best Viewpoint

We arrive in Filisur, a charming mountain village in Graubünden. Wandering through its narrow streets, we’re surrounded by characteristic white houses in the Engadine style. The houses are decorated with ornate stucco and deep window sills full of red geraniums. The village sits on a sunny terrace and exudes authentic calm.

We change to the Landwasser Express, a small road-going train. It takes us on a short ride to the foot of the iconic Landwasser Viaduct. From here, we walk to a special viewpoint. This spot is perfect for photography lovers. We look up to see the enormous stone pillars against the blue sky. Just above us, a red train emerges from the tunnel. Only here do we truly appreciate how high and steep the mountainside is. It’s impressive to see the train glide over the narrow arch.

The Spirals of the Albula Line

Our journey continues along the Albula Line. This route is rightly on UNESCO’s World Heritage list. The engineers had to come up with creative solutions to overcome the altitude. The train occasionally uses reversing tunnels and spirals in the mountains. Sometimes we enter a tunnel and come out just above it. We see the village we passed earlier now far below us. It’s a play with height you won’t find anywhere else. The Rhaetian Railway shows off its technical prowess here. We keep staring out the window, following the route.

The Moment at the Landwasser Viaduct

We already admired the Landwasser Viaduct from the viewpoint. Now, we experience the thrill of crossing this monument ourselves. We come out of a pitch-dark tunnel and suddenly step into daylight.

We are now on the famous Landwasser Viaduct. This image appears on almost every postcard from Graubünden. The train floats high above on a bridge with six arches. The rails seem to hang in the air over the valley. It’s a strange but beautiful feeling to ride here. At the end of the viaduct, we immediately enter a sheer rock face. This technical marvel has stood strong for over a hundred years.

Other Beautiful Train Routes in Graubünden

We don’t have time to take all the stunning train journeys in Graubünden. Here’s an overview of the highlights:

From Ice to Palms on the Bernina Line

Another legendary route is the Bernina Line. This is the highest railway over the Alps that operates without cogwheels. The train climbs to over 2,200 metres. Here lies Lago Bianco, a lake often milky white in colour. The landscape is barren, rugged, and alpine. Alp Grüm is the perfect spot for a coffee with glacier views. Then begins a spectacular descent. In a short time, snow and ice give way to a Mediterranean climate. The train winds down towards the village of Poschiavo and eventually Italy. It’s incredible to see so many different worlds in one journey.

The Rhine Gorge: Switzerland’s Grand Canyon

Between Reichenau-Tamins and Ilanz lies a very different natural wonder. This is the Ruinaulta, or Rhine Gorge. It’s often called Switzerland’s Grand Canyon. The train runs right alongside the Rhine’s waters. The river has carved deep gullies in soft limestone. Passengers are surrounded by huge white cliffs shooting straight up. The water sometimes shines turquoise, other times milky white. The nature here is pristine and wild. There are no roads in the gorge, so the train is the only way to see it. It’s a peaceful and impressive part of a train journey through Graubünden.

Trams and Climbs to Arosa

From the city of Chur, the Arosa Line departs. The start of this ride is unusual for a mountain train. The train first runs like a tram through the city streets. It’s amusing to see the red carriages weaving between cars. After leaving the city, the train begins a steep climb. In just an hour, it gains about 1,000 metres in altitude. Along the way, it crosses the Langwieser Viaduct. This huge concrete bridge towers high above the valley. The view down below always leaves passengers silent. Eventually, the train arrives at the spa resort of Arosa, high in the mountains.

Also Fun: Walking and Riding the Via Albula/Bernina

The Via Albula/Bernina is top of our wish list, and for good reason. This long-distance hiking trail follows the iconic route of the Rhaetian Railway. Ten beautiful stages are laid out along the track, which is rightly on UNESCO’s World Heritage list.

The route runs from Thusis through the mountains to the Italian town of Tirano. What makes this trek unique is the constant connection between ingenious railway architecture and overwhelming nature. The path follows as many historic trails as possible. Along the way, you can admire the famous viaducts and reversing tunnels up close. This offers a very different perspective than viewing from the train.

The great advantage of this route is the ultimate freedom the railway offers. If you don’t fancy a steep climb or your legs tire after a few kilometres, you can simply hop on the train at one of the charming stations. The Rhaetian Railway cleverly supports this with special packages. Your luggage is transported from hotel to hotel while you enjoy the fresh mountain air carefree. For those who want to experience this perfect mix of effort and relaxation themselves, be sure to check the official Rhaetian Railway website for all details and bookings.

A Dive into History in Bergün

We end our journey in the village of Bergün on the Albula Line. Walking into the village feels like stepping into a living picture book. Bergün is perhaps the most photogenic spot along the Albula Line. There’s a serene, authentic atmosphere inviting us to slow down and breathe deeply.

In the village, we visit the Albula Railway Museum, right next to the station. With our Swiss Travel Pass, we walk straight in. The museum tells the story of building this challenging railway. We see old artefacts and interactive exhibits showing how tough the work was.

The highlight of the museum is the legendary ‘Crocodile’ locomotive. This powerful machine once hauled heavy trains over steep passes. For children and enthusiasts, there’s also a large model railway of the region. It gives a clear overview of all the loops and tunnels we travelled through ourselves.

What an Experience

Graubünden has shown us that trains are much more than transport. They are a way to truly experience the mountains. The red trains of the Rhaetian Railway belong to this landscape as much as the Alpine giants themselves. We take one last look at the mountains, knowing one thing for sure: this journey on the rails will stay with us forever.

This trip was made possible by invitations from Switzerland Tourism, the canton of Graubünden, Davos-Klosters, and the Rhaetian Railway. The content of this blog was independently and objectively compiled based on our own impressions.

Other topics you may be interested in

• Graubünden: Embracing the Swiss Mountains
• Exploring Switzerland with the Swiss Travel Pass
• Interlaken: A base for unique winter activities
• City trip to Zurich
• City trip to Thun: Enjoying the city and its surroundings