Stage 6 of the Malerweg takes us from Schmilka to Kurort Gohrisch through an impressive rocky landscape. We begin with a steep climb up to the majestic Kaiserkrone. This is followed by an adventurous route to the Zirkelstein, the smallest table mountain in the region. Using iron ladders, we reach spectacular viewpoints with panoramic vistas. The walk passes through the picturesque village of Reinhardtsdorf-Schöna, with its baroque church. We continue our journey across the table mountains of Papststein and Gohrisch. Along the way, we pass the scenic Liethenmühle. The combination of technical sections, untouched nature, and the table mountains makes this stage unforgettable.
In this blog ...
From Schöna to the Summit of the Wolfsberg
We wake in our guesthouse in Schöna to a sky of unbroken blue. Perfect hiking weather! Storm Boris had thrown a spanner in the works yesterday. For logistical reasons, we couldn’t stay overnight in Schmilka, the endpoint of Stage 5. Schöna, however, turns out to be a pleasant surprise—this small village on the Elbe. It’s nestled picturesquely between wooded hills and the river. The village has a small local museum showcasing regional history. The half-timbered houses also catch our eye.
We shoulder our daypacks and start our trek through the village. The tarmacked road leads us upwards. Dense trees line both sides of the road, offering cooling shade. The village sits sheltered in this green setting. A few locals greet us warmly as they go about their morning chores. Life moves at a leisurely pace here. After ten minutes of walking, we leave the last houses behind. The tarmacked road gives way to an unpaved path.
We now walk between expansive fields and meadows. The open space offers lovely views of the surroundings. In the distance, atop a hill, we spot the beautifully situated Panoramahotel Wolfsberg. We hike steadily upwards on the well-trodden path. The climb is gradual and demands little effort. With each step, the view grows more impressive. The clear blue sky contrasts perfectly with the green landscape. There’s no trace left of Storm Boris.
We near the summit, where the path opens onto a wider gravel track. Here, we turn right towards Reinhardtsdorf, leaving the hotel on the Wolfsberg to our left. After all, we’ve only just begun our day’s hike.
Along the Caspar-David-Friedrich-Weg to Krippen
We enter Reinhardtsdorf, a charming village with characterful half-timbered houses. Reinhardtsdorf is known for its traditional Umgebindehäuser, with their unique timber-and-stone construction. This architectural style is typical of the border region between Germany, the Czech Republic, and Poland.
After the village, we take a forest path that gradually ascends. Filtered sunlight streams in stripes between the trees. The colours in the forest are breathtaking. Red ferns contrast with the green foliage of the varied woodland. After a short climb, we reach an information board titled Alter Steinbruch Reinhardtsdorf. We learn that quarries drastically altered the landscape here over the centuries. Rocks once stretched all the way to the Elbe. The sandstone from this area was transported by water to Dresden and beyond. Major buildings like Dresden’s Frauenkirche and the Brandenburg Gate were constructed using this stone. It was also favoured for sculptures.
We continue along the path, which winds its way up the hill through semi-open forest. Later, we reach a magnificent viewpoint. The panorama over the Elbe Valley is truly stunning. This section of the route is called the Caspar-David-Friedrich-Weg. The famous artist often came here for inspiration. The path now descends towards the Elbe, zigzagging down between rocky outcrops.
To our surprise, we find ourselves in the centre of Krippen. This doesn’t match our route description. We look around for the Malerweg markings. Somewhere, we must have missed a turn. We ask several people where the Malerweg continues. To our astonishment, no one knows the famous hiking trail. We check our GPX route. According to the map, we can turn left into the village and ascend via a steep forest path. Soon after, we spot a Malerweg marker with relief. We’ve found the route again!
Via Kleinhennersdorf to the Papststein
We pass the historic Liethenmühle, a picturesque water mill from days gone by. The building has been beautifully restored and now houses a cosy café-restaurant. The route follows the babbling Liethenbach stream. The narrow path traces the winding brook until we reach a natural reservoir. The water sparkles in the sunlight, surrounded by greenery.
On the outskirts of Kleinhennersdorf, a panorama of rolling meadows unfolds before us. We follow an unpaved path that runs precisely along the edge of the forest. The landscape here is stunning and varied. In the distance, the outlines of table mountains stand against the clear blue sky.
We pass a group of teenagers. To burn off energy, a few of them sprint up a grassy hill, only to race back down at full speed. “Rather them than us,” we laugh in the warm afternoon sun. The path leads us to a point where a clear climb begins. From the opposite direction, a group of American seniors with walking sticks approaches. We stop for a chat. They enthusiastically share stories of their hiking holiday. Their tales make us even more curious about what lies ahead.
To the Papststein on Stage 6 of the Malerweg
After exchanging tips, we say our goodbyes and begin the long ascent. The path grows steeper and rougher. Tree roots form natural steps, interspersed with rails anchored into the ground. We need to watch our footing. The effort is noticeable in our calves, but the view becomes more impressive with every step. We pause frequently to catch our breath. After twenty minutes of climbing, we reach the summit of the Papststein. The panorama that unfolds is breathtaking.
At the highest point stands a tiny inn with an inviting terrace. We order a refreshing drink and find a spot with the best view. The service is friendly and unhurried. With our legs stretched out, we soak in the magnificent vistas over the Elbe Valley.
The Table Mountains of Stage 6 of the Malerweg
Stage 6 is rich in impressive table mountains, so characteristic of Saxon Switzerland’s landscape. This region boasts several distinctive table mountains. The first on this stage is the Papststein, where we now stand. On the terrace, we check which table mountain comes next on the route. It’s the Gohrisch, also known as the Gohrischstein. Other nearby table mountains include the Pfaffenstein (Stage 7) and the smaller but photogenic Zirkelstein. From the terrace, we can see even more table mountains in the far distance. A splendid sight.
We continue our so-far fantastic hike down from the Papststein. During the descent, we’re frequently treated to beautiful views, with table mountains dotting the horizon. We’ve barely reached the bottom of the Papststein when the route leads us upwards again. This climb to the Gohrisch-Stein is more challenging than anything we’ve encountered so far. We must scale numerous steel ladders to reach the summit.
Once at the top, we arrive at the summit of the Gohrischstein, with its breathtaking panoramas. A small picnic pavilion has been built atop the rugged rocks. From here, we can clearly see the impressive formations of the Schrammsteine. To the west, we already spot two destinations for the next stage: the distinctive Pfaffenstein and the imposing Königstein fortress.
Official End of Stage 6 of the Malerweg
The forest path down the mountain is utterly beautiful, passing rocky outcrops and fern-filled woodland gardens. We eventually reach the agricultural land around Kurort Gohrisch, with its expansive fields. Kurort Gohrisch is a picturesque spa town that has attracted visitors seeking recuperation for generations. The village is known for its health-giving climate and tranquil surroundings. Numerous spa houses and small guesthouses dot the green hills around the centre. Gohrisch’s history as a spa town dates back to the late 19th century. Tourists come here primarily for restorative nature walks and the healing outdoor air.
Kurort Gohrisch marks the official endpoint of this sixth stage of the Malerweg. However, we continue a little further along the Malerweg to our reserved accommodation. From this point, we’ll begin our hiking report for Stage 7 of the Malerweg tomorrow.
Practical Tips for Stage 6 of the Malerweg
Stage 6 of the Malerweg is just over 17 kilometres long. Allow roughly seven hours of walking time for this splendid stage.
A brief route description and overview map can be found on the Saxon Switzerland website. Combined with the excellent signposting, getting lost is virtually impossible. Additionally, a GPX track is available for download.
Some consider Stage 6 relatively easy compared to, say, Stage 5. Officially, however, it’s classified as “demanding.” This is due to the combination of its length (17.3 km) and the climbs to the table mountains.
The vast majority of the route is on unpaved paths.
According to the Saxon Switzerland website, you can hike Stage 6 with your dog. However, you must bypass the Papststein and Gohrisch table mountains due to the iron ladders.
The official starting point of Stage 6 of the Malerweg is in the village of Schmilka. Here, you begin the route by first taking a ferry across the Elbe to Reinhardtsdorf-Schöna. The official endpoint of this stage is the village of Kurort Gohrisch. We, however, started Stage 6 in Reinhardtsdorf-Schöna.
Check the Verkehrsverbund Oberelbe (VVO) website to plan any necessary transport.
Several eateries can be found along Stage 6 of the Malerweg. The main ones are:
- The restaurant at Panoramahotel Wolfsberg, located on the Wolfsberg. This is an excellent spot to recharge before continuing your hike. Here, you can enjoy Saxon hospitality, local dishes, and a refreshing drink with a fantastic view over Saxon Switzerland.
- The Papststein Mountain Inn, situated on the Papststein, right on the Malerweg. This is one of the most popular mountain inns in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. They offer a varied menu with local, vegetarian, and vegan dishes. Plus, there’s a stunning panoramic view.
- The Panorama Restaurant Falkensteinblick am Campingplatz in Kurort Gohrisch, where you can stop for coffee with homemade cake, an ice cream sundae, or a full meal.
It’s advisable to bring enough water and possibly some snacks during your hike. After all, Stage 6, with its 17+ kilometres and significant elevation changes, is considered challenging.
There are several good places to stay near Stage 6 of the Malerweg. This stage runs from Schmilka to Kurort Gohrisch, and there are various lodging options along the way and at these endpoints:
- In Schmilka (the starting point), there are several “hiker-friendly” accommodations specifically catering to Malerweg walkers. Examples include Bio-Hotel Zur Mühle, Pension Alpenrose, and Helvetia Hotel.
- In Reinhardtsdorf-Schöna (just after crossing the Elbe): here, you’ll find accommodations convenient if you want to split the stage or prefer not to cross the Elbe in the morning.
- Near the Wolfsberg: Panoramahotel Wolfsberg offers not only a restaurant but also accommodation with fantastic views over Saxon Switzerland.
- In Kurort Gohrisch (the endpoint): many accommodations are available, including the highly rated Villa Irene and Alter Gutshof Papstdorf.
You can also book accommodation directly through the official Saxon Switzerland website for this specific stage.
We hiked the entire Malerweg at the invitation of TMGS (Tourismus Marketing Gesellschaft Sachsen) and Tourismusverband Sächsische Schweiz. The content of this blog has been compiled independently and objectively based on our own impressions.
