Stage 5 of the Malerweg leads us from the Neumannmühle to Schmilka through a landscape shaped by centuries of milling history. As we set off, we follow the Kirnitzsch upstream towards the picturesque Buschmühle. From there, we climb via the Mühlschlüchte to the impressive Zeughaus. The trail then continues to the Großer Winterberg, the second‑highest mountain in the region. From its summit, we enjoy spectacular panoramic views. Eventually, the descent brings us to Schmilka, Germany’s first fully organic village. Although this stage is only 13.6 kilometres long, it still requires around seven hours of walking time without breaks. The steep ascents and descents are demanding, yet they reward us with beautiful nature and rich cultural history.
Losing our way towards the Räumichtmühle
The morning sun filters through the treetops as we leave the historic Neumannmühle behind. For the first stretch to the Buschmühle, we follow the paved road alongside the fast‑flowing Kirnitzsch. When we reach the junction of the Dorfbachgrund and the Kirnitzschtalstrasse, we pause and look around uncertainly. Two young women confidently turn left and continue along the tarmac road, and without thinking, we fall in behind them.
After a while, the women stop and lean over their map with great concentration. We greet them politely as we pass and continue along the paved road. However, when I check our GPX viewer a little later, my face drops instantly. We are quite far off the planned route. We exchange an irritated look and realise we are walking completely the wrong way. Consequently, we turn around and head back to the T‑junction at the crossroads.
Back at the junction, we finally spot the narrow, almost invisible path leading up the hillside. A small Malerweg marker confirms that we are now on the right track. We begin the steep climb over tree roots and through dense undergrowth. Gradually, each step brings us closer to the Räumichtmühle and further away from our unintended detour.
Towards the highest mountain of Stage 5 of the Malerweg
After leaving the Räumichtmühle behind, we focus on the forest path towards the Mühlschlüchte. Almost immediately, the steep Mühlschlüchte challenges us with winding trails between towering sandstone cliffs. Beads of sweat soon appear on our foreheads during this demanding ascent. Meanwhile, birds sing cheerfully above us as we gain height metre by metre.
As we climb, the forest gradually shifts from deciduous trees to majestic, fragrant pines. We pause briefly at a babbling stream cutting through the rocky landscape. Every now and then someone slips on the damp stones and has to recover quickly. Eventually, after a tough scramble over roots and rocks, we reach the historic Zeughaus. This former forester’s lodge offers a welcome break in the heart of the dense forest. We quickly eat an energy bar and enjoy the silence of this remote spot.
Our route then continues through the mysterious Wolfsschlüchte, with its imposing overhanging boulders. Sunbeams dance between the branches, creating a magical play of light on the forest floor. Afterwards, the final kilometres follow the Rosssteig, passing the distinctive Katzstein with its unusual shape. The effort finally pays off when we reach the summit of the Großer Winterberg.
The 556‑metre Großer Winterberg
At 556 metres, the Großer Winterberg is the highest mountain of this stage. It is also the highest point along the Malerweg and the second‑highest peak in Saxon Switzerland. The Großer Zschirnstein surpasses it by just five metres, making it the highest in the entire region.
The summit of the Großer Winterberg rewards us with a breathtaking panorama after the strenuous climb. We find a quiet spot among the rocks and let our gaze wander. Distant peaks rise against the bright blue sky while clouds cast playful shadows across the landscape. Below us, the Elbe Valley stretches out like a miniature world with its winding river. We take a deep breath, filling our lungs with crisp mountain air. A few birds circle in thermal currents high above the forest around us. Ultimately, these moments on the highest mountain of the Malerweg make every drop of sweat worthwhile. After a short rest and a few photos, we begin our descent.
Schmilka, the end point of Stage 5 of the Malerweg
The descent from the Großer Winterberg begins on a wide forest path with a soft surface. Bright green moss covers the tree trunks while sunlight pierces through the canopy. After half an hour, I feel a dull, nagging pain developing in my left knee. Unfortunately, the pain worsens with every step down the steep, uneven paths.
Over the past few days, we have covered many kilometres with significant elevation changes. Therefore, we pause on a fallen tree trunk to discuss the situation. I decide that for future multi‑day hikes with long descents, I will bring Nordic walking poles. My knees will undoubtedly thank me for the extra support.
We continue along the red Malerweg markers through the ferns. A couple of German hikers pass us and cheerfully wish us a “Taach”. As we descend further, the rock formations around us grow more dramatic. Through the trees, we suddenly spot Schmilka far below. The village lies idyllically on the banks of the Elbe, surrounded by green hills. As we enter, the authentic atmosphere is immediately noticeable, with beautifully restored half‑timbered houses. Schmilka is known as Germany’s first fully organic village, complete with its own bakery and brewery.
An unexpected detour to Schöna
Because of the aftermath of storm Boris, we cannot cross the Elbe by ferry. The water level is too high, and the service has been temporarily suspended. Consequently, we have to take the bus from Schmilka via Bad Schandau to Schöna. As we still have some time before the bus arrives, we settle on a sunny terrace. A locally brewed organic beer forms the perfect reward after our demanding day of hiking.
Practical tips for Stage 5 of the Malerweg
Stage 5 of the Malerweg is 13.6 kilometres long. Allow around seven hours of walking time for this fairly challenging stage.
A brief route description and overview map can be found on the Saxon Switzerland website. Combined with the excellent waymarking, getting lost is virtually impossible. A downloadable GPS track (GPX file) is also available.
Stage 5 is officially rated “demanding” and requires good fitness. The toughest sections are the climb to the Großer Winterberg (556 m) and the descent to Schmilka. Walking time is seven hours without breaks. Although not the longest stage, the elevation changes and technical paths make it challenging.
The vast majority of the route runs along unpaved paths.
According to the Saxon Switzerland website, Stage 5 is perfectly suitable for hiking with a dog.
The official start of Stage 5 is the Neumannmühle (a historic mill and museum). Bus stop “Neumannmühle” is served by bus 241. The end point is Schmilka, an organic village in the Elbe Valley. Bus 252 stops here, among others.
Check the Verkehrsverbund Oberelbe (VVO) website to plan your journey.
There are several options directly along the route:
- At the Neumannmühle (the starting point) there is a technical monument/museum with a café.
- Shortly after setting off, you’ll find Hotel and Restaurant Die Buschmühle.
- Halfway along the route is the Zeughaus, a former forester’s lodge.
- Near the end of the stage is Wanderrast Großer Winterberg. This seasonal hikers’ stop at the highest point of Saxon Switzerland (556 m) offers a small terrace with chilled drinks, coffee, soft ice cream, flammkuchen, seasonal soups and simple meals.
- In Schmilka (the end point) there are several eateries, including organic options.
It is advisable to bring enough food and water for this stage.
There are several good accommodation options in the immediate vicinity of Stage 5 of the Malerweg.
Near the starting point (Neumannmühle):
- Berghütte at the Neumannmühle
- Gasthaus & Pension Buschmühle
- Pension Felsenmühle
Near the end point (Schmilka):
- Bio‑Hotel Zur Mühle
- Pension Alpenrose
- Helvetia Hotel
- Various other B&Bs and guesthouses in Schmilka (these can fill up quickly)
Many hikers choose to stay in Bad Schandau as a base for multiple stages. From Bad Schandau, you can easily reach both the start and end points of Stage 5 by public transport. It is also a good place for a rest day, with more facilities than the smaller villages along the route.
More (budget‑friendly) options can be found on the Saxon Switzerland website. Simply select the place where you wish to stay in the search filter.
We walked the complete Malerweg at the invitation of TMGS (Tourismus Marketing Gesellschaft Sachsen) and Tourismusverband Sächsische Schweiz. We have independently and objectively compiled the content of this blog based on our own impressions.
