Stage 4 of the Malerweg takes us from Altendorf to Neumannmühle through spectacular rock landscapes. We first descend via the Dorfbachklamm to the Kirnitzschtal. Then we climb via the Ostrau mill up to the impressive Schrammsteine with their breathtaking views. The route then leads us over iron ladders and through narrow rock openings. We pass the Lichtenhainer waterfall and the Kuhstall, the largest natural rock gateway in Saxon Switzerland. This challenging 18-kilometre walk requires good fitness, but rewards you with unforgettable vistas.
Scrambling through the Dorfbachklamm
We continue our Malerweg adventure directly after stage 3 with the first part of stage 4. This works better logistically given the location of our accommodation. From Altendorf we descend towards the Dorfbachklamm, an impressive gorge with a wildly rushing mountain stream. The path here isn’t always entirely clear due to recent rainfall. Storm Boris has wreaked havoc with fallen trees blocking the path. We sometimes have to really scramble to make progress in this wild environment.
After the challenging gorge, we reach the Kirnitzschtal via various steps and follow the Flößersteig to the Ostrauer Mühle. This historic mill now functions as a campsite and guesthouse for walkers on the Malerweg. After a brief pause, we climb via the Mühlweg up towards the Bauweg. The ascent continues steadily until we finally reach the beginning of the Elbleitenweg. From here we can continue our walk tomorrow to the spectacular Schrammsteine rock area.
Continuation of stage 4 of the Malerweg
We stand at the beginning of the Elbleitenweg, ready for the second part of stage 4. To get here, we first walked a stretch along a tarmac road. The sunlight danced beautifully between the trees there, illuminating the imposing landscape. What a difference from the past few days! After three stages of threatening cloudy skies, the sun finally welcomes us. The sky turns brilliant blue and we immediately feel more energy flowing through our veins.
Views at the Schrammsteine
We follow the path through the dense forest towards the famous Schrammsteine rock formations. The narrow Elbleitenweg winds along steep rock faces and regularly offers breathtaking glimpses. The sun’s rays fall in magical beams of light through the canopy, turning everything golden. We climb steadily but calmly along the well-maintained path towards the elongated, serrated rock group.
Sometimes we have to stop to catch our breath during a steep climb. The reward awaits at the imposing Schrammtor, an impressive natural gateway between the rocks. Here we take plenty of time to enjoy the magnificent panorama. What luck that the weather has become so beautiful just now! The contrasts between light and shadow make the rocks even more dramatic and photogenic. We climb further up via the winding paths to the Schrammstein viewpoints. From here we look out over a sea of rocks, forests and the glittering ribbon of the Elbe. This part of the Malerweg makes all those challenging kilometres more than worthwhile!
Climbing and descending on stage 4 of the Malerweg
We leave the impressive Schrammsteine with a satisfied feeling and beaming faces. On the path we meet a young lady who talks enthusiastically about the view. She’s not walking the entire Malerweg, just this fourth stage. “I walked this section years ago and wanted to experience it again,” she tells us, grinning. “Now that the weather has finally cleared up, I couldn’t let this chance slip by.” We completely agree with her.
The path leads us further along the Zurückesteig through the impressive rock formations. We pass the Kleine Dom and reach the Sandloch, a natural passage between the rocks. Via the Zeughausweg and the Untere Affensteinweg we gradually descend towards the Kirnitzschtal. The sun plays beautifully with the shadows between the rock faces and trees.
At the Lichtenhainer Wasserfall we pause briefly at the historic terminus of the Kirnitzschtalbahn. We admire the small but powerful little waterfall that’s artificially enhanced for visitors. Given the rainfall from recent days, human intervention is certainly not needed now, we reckon. After our short rest, the climb begins up towards the famous Kuhstall, an enormous stone cave near Neues Wildenstein.
The Kuhstall
The Kuhstall turns out to be an impressive natural rock portal, the largest in the entire region. In the past, local residents hid their cattle here during wars, hence the name ‘cow shed’. We walk through the enormous opening (17 metres wide and 11 metres high!) and reach the other side of the rock massif. Like many other walkers, we sit down for a moment to enjoy the particularly beautiful view.
The notorious Himmelsleiter then challenges us with its narrow, steep steps. We climb up through a narrow rock crevice towards the heavens. At the top, another beautiful panorama over the surrounding rocks and forests awaits us. Our cameras work overtime in this glorious weather.
Historic water mill at the end of stage 4
After enjoying the view, we begin the descent via a narrow path with many steps. We reach a higher path with views of the Kirnitzschtal. In the depths we see the glittering ribbon of the Kirnitzsch meandering.
Eventually we reach the valley floor and follow an idyllic path along the babbling Kirnitzsch. We walk the final kilometres in a relaxed manner towards the Neumannmühle. Originally this was a timber sawmill. Today it houses a technical museum about the mechanical production of wood pulp for making paper. What makes this mill special is that it still remains in its original state.
The mill also has a rich cultural history, we read on a large sign. Some 200 years ago, the mill building was already a popular subject for painters. This isn’t surprising. The Malerweg (“painters’ path”) owes its name, after all, to the many artists who found inspiration here in those days.
At a picnic table we enjoy a well-deserved rest after our adventurous journey. We look back on a stage full of impressive vistas and magnificent nature. Inspired by the beautiful landscapes we’ve discovered today, we look forward eagerly to the next stage.
Practical tips for stage 4 of the Malerweg
Stage 4 of the Malerweg has a length of just over 18 kilometres. Allow a good seven hours’ walking time for this fairly challenging stage.
There’s a basic route description and overview map available on the Saxon Switzerland website. Combined with the excellent signposting, getting lost is virtually impossible. There’s also a GPS track (GPX file) that you can download and use.
We found stage 4 of the Malerweg considerably more challenging than the previous stages. This isn’t just because of the duration and length of the walk. It’s mainly due to the many climbing sections over paths and ladders. In total you need to climb 553 metres and descend 662 metres.
The vast majority of the route goes over unpaved paths.
According to the Saxon Switzerland website, you can in principle walk stage 4 with your dog. But for some sections with ladders, a detour applies.
The official starting point of stage 4 of the Malerweg is in Altendorf at “Altendorf, Erbgericht”. There’s also a bus stop here. You can reach the stop with bus 260.
The official end point is the Neumannmühle, a historic water mill located in the Kirnitzschdal. At this end point there’s the “Neumannmühle” bus stop. Bus 241 runs here.
Consult the Verkehrsverbund Oberelbe (VVO) website to plan your transport.
Along stage 4 of the Malerweg you’ll find several catering establishments where you can get something to eat and drink:
- Bergwirtschaft Am Kuhstall - This historic mountain restaurant is located directly by the largest rock gateway in Sächsische Schweiz (the Kuhstall). They serve various light meals, including good hearty soups, refreshing drinks and ice cream.
- At the Lichtenhainer Wasserfall (waterfall) there’s a stop for the historic Kirnitzschtalbahn tram. Here you also have a catering establishment with a terrace where you can have something to drink and eat. The establishment also offers accommodation.
- The Neumannmühle, where the stage ends, is now a technical monument and also has catering facilities.
It’s advisable to take sufficient food and drink with you during this long walk (well over seven hours), because the catering establishments are at specific points and aren’t evenly distributed along the route.
There are various good overnight accommodation options in the immediate vicinity of stage 4 of the Malerweg:
At the starting point in Altendorf:
- In Altendorf and the immediate area you’ll find various accommodations.
Along the route:
- Ostrauer Mühle - has both a campsite and a guesthouse
- Quartier 5 near the Kuhstall
- At the Lichtenhainer Wasserfall
At the end point Neumannmühle:
- Berghütte near the Neumannmühle
- Gasthaus & Pension Buschmühle
- Pension Felsenmühle
Many walkers choose to stay in Bad Schandau as a base for multiple stages. From Bad Schandau you can easily travel by public transport to both the start and end points of stage 4. Moreover, Bad Schandau is a good location for a rest day, with more facilities than the smaller places along the route.
On the Saxon Switzerland website you’ll find even more (budget-friendly) alternatives. Select the place where you want to stay overnight in the search filter.
We walked the complete Malerweg at the invitation of TMGS (Tourismus Marketing Gesellschaft Sachsen) and Tourismusverband Sächsische Schweiz. We have independently and objectively compiled the content of this blog based on our own impressions.
