The third stage of the Malerweg leads us from picturesque Hohnstein to peaceful Altendorf. During this 14-kilometre walk, we trek through lush autumn forests, past impressive rock formations and through idyllic villages. Along the way, spectacular views of the Polenz Valley unfold. Our journey includes a descent via the famous Brand Steps where we explore the wildly romantic Kohlichtgraben. This stage offers a perfect mix of natural beauty and cultural history that has inspired artists for generations with its magnificent panoramas.
Dry start of stage 3 of the Malerweg
It is actually dry as we leave Hohnstein and begin stage 3 of the Malerweg. With a sigh of relief, we put away our rain gear. Consequently we feel the fresh air after the rainy second stage. Our path first leads past the former zoo of Hohnstein, where only weathered wall remains remind us of earlier times. Between the sprouting greenery, we can still make out the contours of enclosures here and there. We try to imagine which animals once lived here while birds now flutter freely between the overgrown paths.
Via a winding forest path, we reach the Halbenweg, a historic walking path that leads us deeper into the forest. The trees are still dripping from the rain. As a result the forest smells wonderfully fresh. Low-hanging wisps of cloud drift between the treetops and create a fairy-tale atmosphere. We pass imposing sandstone formations that loom like mysterious guardians in the mist.
The Halbenweg brings us to the Räumichtweg, a beautiful path that runs along the edge of the plateau. With each step, an increasingly dramatic landscape unfolds. The mist hangs like thin veils in the valleys below us. We climb further, over damp sandstone steps and past moss-covered boulders. Despite the clouds, it remains dry, and the mysterious atmosphere makes this walk particularly special.
After a steep climb, we reach the Brand Massif. At the Brand Viewpoint, normally known for its spectacular vistas, only a white wall of mist awaits us. The entire Polenz Valley is invisible and we can barely see five metres ahead. Instead of a panorama, we experience a meditative silence in this white emptiness. Different from the famous postcards, but still magical – as if we are standing on the edge of the world.
Via the Tiefen Grund to Kohlmühle
From the Brand, we begin an impressive descent over a neatly maintained staircase that seems endless. The grey-white clouds hang low between the tops of the trees, creating a mysterious atmosphere. Despite the clouds, it fortunately remains dry. That makes this descent much more pleasant.
In the depths, we reach the Tiefen Grund, where we catch our breath. Impressive rock formations rise above us, their contours blurred by the mist. We follow the narrow path further and turn towards the Dorfgrund. As we continue, the landscape changes gradually.. Around us, steep rock walls give way to softer slopes and wide fields under a blanket of grey clouds.
Waitzdorf welcomes us with peace and rural charm. We pass a few typical half-timbered houses and wave to an older man tending his garden. Then we follow the Mühlweg, an old trade route that leads us through misty forests. The path descends steadily and eventually brings us to the wildly romantic Kohlichtgraben. This narrow gorge with its babbling brook seems even more like a setting from a fairy tale in the grey surroundings. Green mosses cover the rock walls and damp ferns wave to us. The brook becomes our guide – we continue to follow it as it gradually widens.
With each step downward, the landscape changes. The rugged nature slowly gives way to signs of human presence. Eventually, we reach Kohlmühle, a small settlement in the valley. In the middle of the village, a huge, monumental building of red bricks catches our attention. With its weathered walls and tall chimneys, the abandoned linoleum factory tells stories about the industrial past of this now peaceful place.
To Altendorf on stage 3 of the Malerweg
We leave the abandoned linoleum factory of Kohlmühle behind us with mixed feelings. The empty windows seem to stare after us as we walk on. As we depart, we joke briefly that this would be the perfect location for a horror film. With a final glance over our shoulder, we continue our journey along the Sebnitz Valley.
The path now leads us along the wildly flowing Sebnitz river, which, like the Elbe, has burst its banks. We walk between lush vegetation and listen to the soothing sound of the flowing water. Occasionally, we spot a dipper bird darting quickly over the water’s surface. The river makes beautiful bends through the landscape here. Old trees bend over the water. Their branches reach towards the opposite side as if wanting to touch each other.
At the mouth of the Schwarzbach, we pause briefly. Here, a small tributary flows into the Sebnitz, creating a beautiful spectacle. We continue our way along the Mühlweg, a historic path once used by millers. The path now gradually climbs upward, away from the river. The trees around us alternate with open spaces where we look out over rolling meadows. In the distance, we discern the contours of Altendorf. A few cows graze peacefully in the meadows. They look up curiously as we walk past.
End of stage 3 of the Malerweg
After a final climb, we finally reach Altendorf, the final destination of this stage. This charming village welcomes us with its characteristic half-timbered houses and rustic atmosphere. We’ve completed a decent walk and have earned a visit to Landgasthaus Heiterer Blick in the village. While we eat and drink, we already study the map of stage 4 of the Malerweg. From what we can see, spectacular rock formations and deep gorges await us. We can hardly wait to begin the next stage!
Practical tips for stage 3 of the Malerweg
Stage 3 of the Malerweg has a length of 14 kilometres. Allow approximately five hours of walking time for this stage.
There is a brief route description and an overview map available on the website of Saxon Switzerland. Combined with the excellent signposting, getting lost is virtually impossible. Additionally, there is a GPS track (GPX file) that you can download and use.
Stage 3 of the Malerweg has a ‘moderate’ difficulty level. The route is suitable for people who walk at least occasionally and have an average fitness level.
The vast majority of the route is on unpaved roads.
According to the Saxon Switzerland website, you can easily walk stage 3 with your dog.
The official starting point of stage 3 of the Malerweg is at the bus stop “Hohnstein, Eiche” or “Hohnstein, Polenztal” in Hohnstein. The official endpoint is at the “Erbgericht” in Altendorf, where there is also a bus stop.
There are four bus lines with which you can travel to the starting point of stage 3 of the Malerweg:
- Bus line 236 to bus stop “Hohnstein, Polenztal” or “Hohnstein, Eiche”
- Bus line 237 to bus stop “Hohnstein, Polenztal” or “Hohnstein, Eiche”
- Bus lines 254 and 264 stop at “Hohnstein, Eiche”
Consult the website of Verkehrsverbund Oberelbe (VVO) to plan your journey.
Along stage 3 of the Malerweg, you’ll find various eateries where you can pause for food and drink:
- Brand-Baude: this is an important resting point on the route and is located at the famous Brand viewpoint. The restaurant is a traditional mountain hut with German/European cuisine and offers a beautiful panoramic view of the surroundings.
- Waitzdorfer Schänke: this welcoming inn is located in the village of Waitzdorf, about halfway through the stage. According to reviews, it’s a “good lunch spot on the Malerweg”.
- Gasthof Russigmühle: a restaurant serving German and European dishes and described as a good stopping place for hikers.
Keep in mind that opening hours may vary, especially outside the high season. It’s always wise to bring some snacks and water in case a planned stop turns out to be closed.
At the starting point in Hohnstein:
- Burg Hohnstein: a historic castle that also offers accommodation. Ideal if you – like us – have just completed stage 2 and want to start stage 3 the next day.
- Hotel Weißer Hirsch: this hotel in Hohnstein offers a special walking package for Malerweg hikers. They take you to the starting point each morning and pick you up again in the evening at the end point of your stage – very practical!
Along the route:
- Brand-Baude: a traditional mountain hut located at the famous Brand viewpoint. Here you’ll find not only a restaurant but also accommodation with a beautiful panoramic view. There is also an information centre about the Saxon Switzerland National Park.
- Waitzdorfer Schänke: a welcoming inn in the quiet village of Waitzdorf, about halfway through the stage.
At the end point in Altendorf:
- In Altendorf and the immediate surroundings, you’ll find various accommodations.
On the website of Saxon Switzerland, you’ll find even more (inexpensive) alternatives. Select the place where you want to stay overnight in the search filter. Such as Hohnstein or Altendorf.
We walked the complete Malerweg at the invitation of TMGS (Tourismus Marketing Gesellschaft Sachsen) and Tourismusverband Sächsische Schweiz. We have independently and objectively compiled the content of this blog based on our own impressions.
