Graubünden in Switzerland immediately evokes a sense of adventure. This magnificent canton boasts rugged peaks and deep blue lakes. The region breathes a blend of cultural traditions and pristine nature. It’s a place to get active and truly enjoy the great outdoors. Graubünden invites you to explore, offering a wonderful mix of highlights to discover.
Davos: A Spa Town with Dutch Connections
Our base for this trip is the well-known Davos, high up in the Swiss mountains. I used to know the name only from the high-altitude ice rink where Dutch skaters Ard and Keessie triumphed in the seventies. But Davos has a much longer history.
World-Renowned Spa Resort
From the nineteenth century onwards, Davos grew into an important health resort. Wealthy tuberculosis patients from across Europe came here to recover. Dutchman Willem Jan Holsboer played a key role in this development. His wife suffered from a lung disease, and Holsboer recognised the potential of the healthy climate. He established several sanatoria and initiated railway construction, greatly improving the region’s accessibility.
A Town of Many Faces
Davos consists of several small districts connected by rail. Due to extensive new developments around the conference centres (Davos hosts the annual World Economic Forum), it lacks the authentic charm of a traditional Swiss mountain village. Still, there’s plenty to see and do in the area.
We visit the large church in Davos and briefly stop by the Kirchner Museum, home to famous expressionist art. The town also boasts many sports facilities, including an ice hockey stadium. At this very moment, the local top team is playing a home game, and the stadium is packed.
A Journey Back in Time to Schatzalp
A definite highlight in Davos is our visit to the former sanatorium Schatzalp. We take a historic cable car up the mountain. This sanatorium is now a stunning hotel that perfectly preserves the atmosphere of days gone by. It feels as if we have stepped into the characters of Thomas Mann’s novel The Magic Mountain, which is set mainly in a sanatorium.
We admire the long terraces where TB patients once convalesced. Inside, we visit the famous X-Ray Bar—a nod to the medical history, where doctors once examined patients’ X-rays. From the park-like, well-maintained gardens, we enjoy breathtaking views over Davos. It’s a beautiful place steeped in unique history.
Authentic Klosters
Just a short distance from Davos lies Klosters, a town with a very different vibe. This neighbouring village has retained a much more authentic feel. Here, the typical Swiss mountain style shines through. Charming chalets with beautifully decorated balconies abound, and colourful flower boxes adorn the windows. It’s the kind of place where you happily sit and watch the world go by.
Klosters has long been a popular holiday destination. Royal families and film stars have been frequent visitors for decades, reflected in the upscale shops lining the main street, which features chic boutiques and luxury stores.
We stroll past the beautiful 15th-century village church, a symbol of Klosters. The church tower is the last remnant of the medieval monastery that once stood here, and it’s from this monastery that the village takes its name. We also visit the historic Sunniberg Bridge and a small but interesting local museum. The town is compact, atmospheric, and welcoming.
Into the Great Outdoors
The main attraction of Graubünden is undoubtedly its stunning natural beauty. This mountainous canton offers vast spaces for active pursuits. The views are consistently breathtaking, and the mountain air is fresh and pure. Here, people come to hike and cycle.
Walk from Rinerhorn to Sertig
We take the local bus in the morning to Davos Glaris. We get off at the base station of the Rinerhorn cable car. This early, we are the only ones taking the gondola up. At the mountain station, we first enjoy the incredible peace and the wide surroundings. The sun is already shining brightly in the mountains, making the view even more beautiful.
Then we start our walk. The panoramas are truly amazing. Autumn colours are already in full bloom in the mountain landscape. The larches are particularly special: their needles turn golden yellow and orange before falling.
The first part of the trail runs over wide, well-maintained paths. After a while, we reach a nicely arranged barbecue area. There is a covered hut with a stock of wood, several barbecues, and many outdoor seating spots. It is an ideal place for lunch with self-grilled sausages!
The Church of Sertig
From here, the path becomes narrower and more challenging. A mountain bike route runs alongside. It’s good that walkers and cyclists have separate paths on this narrow section, so we don’t get in each other’s way. This part of the route has more trees in beautiful colours. We walk through a sunny, wooded landscape. After a while, we reach the charming village of Sertig. In the middle of the valley, we see the quaint white church. It is a beautiful sight with the rugged mountains in the background. The church stands out brightly against the colourful autumn forests. Then it is time for lunch at Walserhuus Sertig. We sit happily on the terrace because the sun is shining fully. The food they serve is delicious. We will definitely come back!
E-Bike Tour to Berghaus Vereina
Today, we have a beautiful bike ride planned through the Vereina Valley. This valley is known for its pristine alpine landscape, where we feel completely alone. We do this with an e-bike, which is handy because we climb almost 800 metres. For us experienced cyclists, that is still quite a challenge, even with assistance.
The first stretch along the stream is flat and easy. Then the long, steady climb begins. The views get more beautiful with every bend. We see waterfalls and rugged rock faces. Finally, we reach Berghaus Vereina. It lies idyllically, hidden in the mountain range at almost 2,000 metres altitude. We enjoy a tasty lunch on the terrace, with only local specialties. The alpine atmosphere here is perfect.
On the way back, we take the same route and start a long descent. Our hands almost get sore from constantly squeezing the brakes. But the view makes it all worthwhile! With a satisfied feeling, we return the mountain bikes to the rental shop. This was a wonderful and unforgettable high-altitude ride.
Train Travel in Graubünden
What could be better than enjoying Graubünden’s nature by train? The Rhaetian Railway has built beautiful railway routes in this canton. Some of these train journeys are even UNESCO World Heritage sites. You see the most beautiful panoramas pass by. The railway lines are impressively integrated into the landscape.
Historic Journey through the Zügen Gorge
Today, we take a dream trip on a historic train. We depart from Davos towards the village of Filisur. The locomotive and carriages date from the 1920s and are beautifully restored. The train itself is already a sight!
In about forty minutes, the journey takes us through the Zügen Gorge. The gorge is deep, and the river roars far below. The route then crosses the famous Wiesner Viaduct, an impressive structure. We sit comfortably in the first-class carriages, with cosy armchairs where we watch the landscape pass by. True enthusiasts choose the open panoramic carriage. The view there is fantastic, but the cold wind can make enjoying it a challenge.
The route is a technical masterpiece. We pass through a series of short tunnels. Every time we come out of a tunnel, it is exciting. We never know which amazing panorama will surprise us next. It is the best way to experience this rugged mountain landscape.
Landwasser Viaduct
The Landwasser Viaduct is a famous place for train spotting. This architectural marvel stands on the Albula line. Halfway between Chur and St. Moritz, this 142-metre-long viaduct rises 65 metres high, supported by five masonry pillars.
At the station, we take the Landwasser Express. This tourist train passes through the picturesque village of Filisur. It brings us to the famous UNESCO World Heritage Landwasser Viaduct. We stand in the perfect spot to see the train cross the viaduct. It is an impressive sight.
Later that day, we travel over the viaduct ourselves. When we emerge from the tunnel, we get a beautiful view of the train making the curve on this true engineering marvel. Train travel in Graubünden is truly an experience!
On the Wish List
We visit many beautiful places in Graubünden by train during these days. Yet the region has even more fantastic train journeys for enthusiasts. Such as the famous Albula Express and the iconic Bernina Express. The Albula Express travels over viaducts and through tunnels. The Bernina Express is the highest trans-Alpine railway, bringing you to Tirano in Italy. These must be wonderful routes! They are high on our wish list and a great reason to return to Graubünden soon.
Picturesque Mountain Villages
On our journey through Graubünden, we discover several beautiful villages. The houses in these places often have the typical Engadine style. With their painted facades and small windows, they look incredibly charming.
Filisur: Gateway to the Gorge
This picturesque railway village is the gateway to the Zügen Gorge. We immediately see how important the railway connection is. The station area is beautifully preserved. We walk through the main street and admire the old, well-maintained wooden houses. A nice detail is the village fountain with its clear water. From the village square, we have a perfect view of the surrounding mountains and the green valley. From Filisur, it is only a short walk to the Landwasser Viaduct viewpoint.
Bergün: A Journey Through Time
Bergün is a stunning mountain village with a beautiful village centre. The Romanesque church tower is a tall, recognisable landmark. We stop at the famous Kurhaus Bergün. This fantastic hotel is a beautiful example of Art Nouveau architecture. It breathes the atmosphere of the early twentieth century. It is really a lovely place to have lunch or stay overnight. The village also has a small but interesting museum about the Albula railway line. Here, you learn all about the fascinating construction of this railway.
Monstein: Louder Than the Neighbours
Monstein is a small and traditional Walser village, idyllically located high above Davos. We walk through the quiet streets. The village has several historic wooden houses and farms in the typical Walser style. The residents are very proud of their traditions. We also visit the two charming churches. Interestingly, they built the second, larger church to make the church bell sound louder than that of the neighbouring village. It is a nice story about village rivalry!
Switzerland’s Highest Brewery
We have a reason to be in Monstein. We visit the highest brewery in the whole country. Brewer Sebastian enthusiastically shows us around. He is a born entertainer and could easily perform as a stand-up comedian. He takes us to the fountain opposite the brewery. There, he pours a delicious cool Monsteiner beer. Inside the brewery, we taste several other beers. They are all equally tasty.
The story behind the brewery is very special. Beer has been brewed for 25 years in the empty buildings of an old cheese factory. Almost every resident of Monstein is a shareholder in the company. On Friday afternoons, they gather in the beer cellar. They take their own glass hanging on the wall and toast to the pride of their village. An excellent start to the weekend!
Graubünden as a Holiday Destination
After several days travelling around this canton, we know one thing for sure: Graubünden is a perfect holiday destination. Every season is fantastic here. The combination of active days in nature, picturesque villages, and impressive train journeys is unique. We are sold and will definitely return!
Frequently Asked Questions about Holidays in Graubünden
Graubünden is the largest and easternmost canton of Switzerland, bordering Austria, Liechtenstein, and Italy.
To get to Graubünden, the largest canton in eastern Switzerland, you typically travel via Switzerland’s well-connected transport network. The nearest major international airports are Zurich and Milan, both offering excellent rail and road connections to Graubünden. From Zurich Airport, you can take a direct train to Chur, the capital of Graubünden, which takes about 1.5 to 2 hours. From Chur, regional trains and buses connect you to popular destinations like Davos, St. Moritz, and Klosters. If you prefer driving, the Swiss motorway system provides scenic routes into the mountains, but be prepared for mountain roads, especially in winter. For those coming from Italy or Austria, there are also convenient rail and road links crossing the borders into Graubünden. Overall, travelling by train is highly recommended for comfort, spectacular views, and ease of access.
Graubünden is the only trilingual canton in Switzerland, with German, Romansh, and Italian spoken. German is generally understood throughout the canton.
The capital is Chur. Other well-known towns include Davos, St. Moritz, Klosters, Landquart, and Scuol.
Davos is a modern, lively town with many amenities and a rich history as a spa resort. It lacks the traditional mountain village charm but is an excellent base for sports and culture year-round.
The most famous are the Bernina Express and Albula Express, both UNESCO World Heritage routes. The Glacier Express also partly runs through Graubünden. The Rhaetian Railway offers other scenic and nostalgic train rides.
You’ll find villages with authentic Engadine or Walser styles, such as Bergün, Monstein, Guarda, Sertig, Klosters, Malans, Sent, and Scuol. The glamorous St. Moritz is also famous.
Highlights include the Landwasser Viaduct, the Swiss National Park, historic town centres, and spectacular nature with mountains and lakes. The Rhine Gorge is a dramatic river canyon. Iconic train journeys like the Albula and Bernina Express showcase the magical landscape.
Absolutely. The climate is excellent for hiking, cycling, and mountain climbing. The mountain air is healthy, and it’s much quieter than in winter.
There are countless opportunities to actively enjoy all the beauty Graubünden has to offer. For walkers, more than 17,000 km of trails await. There are many cycling routes suitable for e-biking or mountain biking. Mountain lakes provide perfect spots for swimming. Enthusiasts can also go rafting and paragliding.
On the website of Outdoor Active, you can find various selections of outdoor activities. It offers many routes for both walkers and cyclists. Additionally, it provides information on more specialised sports.
Yes, Graubünden is the birthplace of Swiss winter sports, featuring top ski resorts like Davos-Klosters, St. Moritz, and Arosa Lenzerheide, along with several lesser-known but excellent ski areas.
Local delicacies include Bündnerfleisch (air-dried beef), Capuns (chard rolls with filling), Bündner Nusstorte (nut tart with caramel), Pizzoccheri (buckwheat noodles with vegetables and cheese), and Maluns (grated potatoes with flour and butter). Other specialties are Bündner barley soup, Churer meat pie, and pear bread.
We enjoyed staying at Hotel Grischa, a stylish four-star hotel with a Dutch owner, ideally located opposite the station. Its restaurants are highly recommended. Other good options include:
- Schatzalp Hotel (former sanatorium)
- Hotel Alpenhof
- Hotel Edelweiss
For B&Bs, Bellagio, Stiffler-Huus, and Haus im Sand are attractive choices.
For a full list of accommodations in Davos, see the official offerings.
This article was written independently based on our own impressions, following an invitation from Switzerland Tourism, the canton of Graubünden, Davos-Klosters, and the Rhaetian Railway.
