The spa town of Carlsbad (Karlovy Vary in Czech) in West Bohemia has been widely known throughout the Czech Republic for centuries. It’s called the queen of spa towns. This is partly due to the healing springs found here. During our recent trip to this region, a visit to the city was a must!

We discovered many surprises beyond the spa facilities. Such as colourful architecture and lively colonnades (columned galleries). We also admired art nouveau buildings and enjoyed charming squares with pleasant terraces. No wonder the famous German writer and philosopher Goethe returned thirteen times to this inspiring city. Something we now fully understand.

Our Visit to Carlsbad Spa Town

Our guide Iva is already waiting for us outside Hotel Termal in the heart of Carlsbad. It’s a beautifully sunny day. But once we’re outside, we’re glad we’re wearing a coat: nights and mornings can be quite chilly here in spring!

We start our city walk through Carlsbad at the Imperial Spa. On the way there, Iva takes us through the rich history of the city. She tells us that the city owes its name to Charles IV. The emperor of the Holy Roman Empire was also king of Bohemia. He founded the city in the mid-14th century after healing, warm springs were discovered at this location. Carlsbad grew into a popular spa resort for European aristocrats and celebrities in the 19th century. The First World War abruptly ended this flourishing period, but after the Velvet Revolution in 1989, the city experienced a revival. Today, many world stars, politicians, scientists, artists and tourists find their way to the spa resort.

The grandeur of the Imperial Spa and the Grandhotel Pupp

It’s no coincidence that we begin our tour of Carlsbad at the Imperial Spa. “This imposing Neo-Renaissance palace from 1895 is not just any building. It’s THE symbol of the glory days of European spa culture,” our guide tells us. “Look at that impressive façade with its graceful domes and elegant details; emperors, tsars and celebrities like Goethe and Beethoven once came here to ‘take the cure’,” Iva continues. As we stand here outside, we can almost imagine how the aristocracy ascended the stairs for their daily healing baths. This architectural jewel is now part of UNESCO’s ‘Great Spa Towns of Europe’.

From here, we walk across one of the ornate bridges spanning the Teplá River. The sun shines abundantly in the bright blue sky, making Carlsbad’s pastel-coloured façades even more vibrant. We stroll leisurely along the river, enjoying the peaceful atmosphere in the city today. In the distance, the impressive Grandhotel Pupp soon appears. This architectural masterpiece has been the epitome of luxury since 1701. Our enthusiastic guide adds that the hotel even starred as a film set in ‘Casino Royale’. Iva entertains us here with stories about famous guests such as Beethoven and Goethe. And about modern film stars who have stayed here. Meanwhile, the temptation of a mobile ice cream cart on the sun-drenched square in front of the hotel becomes almost irresistible. The perfect refreshment during our discovery tour through this elegant spa town!

Enjoying the Diana Viewpoint

From the sunny square at Grandhotel Pupp, we enter a picturesque narrow alley. Here we pass the curious Stone Egg, a large egg-shaped stone symbolising the thermal history of the city. The stone refers to the process whereby the mineral-rich springs form deposits on objects.

Immediately afterwards, we reach the Diana Funicular station. What a surprise! While we hardly encountered any other tourists just now, suddenly there’s an impressive line of people waiting at the historic mountain train station. A part of our group enthusiastically decides to conquer the hill under their own power. The rest patiently join the queue. With cameras at the ready, they too are prepared for the nostalgic ride up to the Diana lookout tower.

While the funicular travellers are still on their way, we walk at a relaxed pace through the forest to the Diana lookout tower. Once at the top, we’re rewarded with a breathtaking panorama of Carlsbad. What immediately strikes us is how the city is completely surrounded by a sea of green. The elegant buildings look like tiny jewels in an immeasurable carpet of forested hills. After the arrival of the rest, we collectively enjoy a delicious lunch at the Diana restaurant. Afterwards, the climb to the lookout tower treats us again to spectacular vistas.

Confusion About the Deer Jump

With full stomachs and cameras full of panoramic photos, we begin our descent. Every bend in the path reveals a new, picturesque view. Just before we reach the city again, we pass an impressive rock formation. On top of the rock stands the proud statue of a chamois. This puzzles us because according to a sign, we are at the “Deer Jump Lookout”.

Iva understands our confusion and comes up with a nice anecdote. The name “Deer Jump” comes from a legend from the 14th century. Emperor Charles IV discovered the hot springs of Carlsbad during a hunting expedition. In 1850, the city council decided to erect a monument at this historic site. Originally, the plan was to place a statue of a deer, referring to the hunt. But due to the high costs, they doubted and considered installing only a commemorative plaque.

Baron von Litzoy then secretly placed a chamois statue. According to him, only a chamois could make such a jump on a high rock. The statue is deliberately turned with its back to the town hall. It was a subtle jibe from the baron towards the indecisive city council. This statue has since grown into a symbol of Carlsbad. The symbol appears on various local products, such as spa wafers.

Water Tasting at the Healing Springs of Carlsbad

The walk leads us back to the Teplá. We follow the river behind our enthusiastic guide. The elegant buildings of the spa resort reflect in the calm water of the Teplá. Iva leads us to the imposing Vřídelní kolonáda in the historic centre of Carlsbad. This colonnade (columned gallery) was built in 1975 in functionalist style with glass and concrete. We enter the iconic building where we marvel at a 12-metre-high fountain. Here we need to bring out our previously received water drinking jugs. These typical porcelain jugs with a long spout have been in use since the 17th century. They prevent people from burning themselves on the hot spring water.

Drinking spring water has been an important part of spa culture in Carlsbad for centuries. King Charles IV healed his injuries in these warm springs in the 14th century. Dr. David Becher, the ‘Hippocrates of Carlsbad’, developed modern drinking therapy in the 18th century. He advised a moderate intake of 1.5 to 2 litres of water per day.

We cautiously taste the water and all make a face. It tastes like rusty earth, very mineral-rich and not particularly pleasant. Yet people have continued to drink it for centuries because of its healing properties. The mineral-rich water helps with digestive problems, diabetes and liver disorders. The high carbon dioxide content improves blood circulation and detoxifies the body.

Our guide tells us that there are springs with water of different temperatures in various places in the city. Each spring has specific healing properties for different ailments. Although we don’t like the taste of the water, we still take another sip. After all, the health benefits outweigh the taste.

Carlsbad Spa Town, City of Colonnades

After our water tasting, we continue walking through the charming centre of Carlsbad. The sun reflects on the colourful façades of the stately buildings. Iva enthusiastically points to an ornate white construction further ahead. “That’s the Market Colonnade,” she says, “a beautiful example of Swiss wooden architecture.”

We make our way through the tourists and admire the elegant white wooden structure with its fine details. Here we taste from the Market Spring, slightly cooler than the previous one. The mineral water still tastes strange, but we’re slowly getting used to it.

We continue our way along the bank of the Teplá River and soon reach the impressive Mill Colonnade. This neo-Renaissance construction with 124 Corinthian columns is the largest in Carlsbad. The roof bears twelve statues representing the months of the year. Here we find no fewer than six springs, including the Rock Spring and the Libuše Spring.

“Take your time to look around,” says Iva. She points to the orchestra podium between the columns. “In summer, there are regular concerts here,” she tells us. We politely decline her invitation to taste the water of different temperatures again. We trust that we’ve built up enough resistance for the rest of this trip.

After the Mill Colonnade, we walk past chic shops with luxury items and traditional souvenirs. Iva tells us about the rich history of the spa resort. She points to the Castle Colonnade, an elegant construction near the city centre. The colourful façades of the surrounding buildings form a picturesque whole.

Back to Our Hotel in Carlsbad Spa Town

Our walk slowly brings us towards our hotel, which we can already see looming ahead. The modernist style of the hotel contrasts a bit too much with the historical architecture in our opinion. We walk past the famous film festival centre that welcomes international stars annually.

Before we reach the hotel, Iva points out the Park Colonnade in the nearby gardens. The cast-iron construction offers a cool shady spot for tired visitors. We take one last look at the glistening Teplá River that winds through the city.

At the entrance of Hotel Thermal, we thank Iva warmly for her expert guidance. She smiles and gives us one last suggestion for a delightful evening walk. We say goodbye and enter the hotel, ready to freshen up for a final exploration of this special spa town.

Fitting End to a Wonderful Day in Carlsbad Spa Town

We enter the cosy Plzeňka Carlsbad for our evening meal. The restaurant is known for its delicious Pilsner Urquell tank beer and authentic Czech cuisine. We enjoy tasty traditional dishes and toast to a successful day in Carlsbad. The friendly service and relaxed atmosphere complete our restaurant visit.

After dinner, we begin our evening walk in the last warm rays of sun. The path winds upwards and offers increasingly beautiful views of the colourful buildings. We follow the route up, away from the city centre. The effort of climbing feels good after our extensive dinner.

At the top of the hill, a magnificent panorama of Carlsbad in full glory awaits us. The sun is still high enough to illuminate all the details of the city. We see the various colonnades and the Teplá River winding through the centre. The landscape surrounding the valley forms a beautiful backdrop for this special spa town.

After taking some photos, we return to our Hotel Thermal to end the day in the hotel’s spa. The wellness area welcomes us with a pleasant scent of essential oils. Most of our travel group choose the relaxing warmth of the sauna. The rest, including myself, dive into the mineral-rich outdoor pool that feels pleasantly warm.

Completely relaxed, we eventually return to our hotel room for a well-deserved night’s rest. The impressions of this wonderful day in Carlsbad linger in our thoughts for a long time.

We visited Carlsbad at the invitation of #VisitCzechia and the Karlovy Vary region. We have independently and objectively compiled the content of this blog based on our own impressions.