The Via Algarviana is a 300 kilometre long distance trail through the inland Algarve. It offers quiet villages, varied landscapes and some of Portugal’s most rewarding hiking. At the invitation of the Algarve Tourism Bureau, we set out to discover this famous long‑distance walking trail. In this article we share our own walking experiences, including highlights, scenery and what you can expect on the trail.
In the foyer of our hotel in Alcoutim, our two guides are waiting for us — what a luxury. To make things even more confusing, they share exactly the same name: Ana Isabel from the Algarve Tourism Board and Ana Isabel from Almargem greet us warmly. Almargem is the organisation responsible for maintaining the Via Algarviana. We have a full day ahead, so we set off straight away.
The sky is a flawless blue and the temperature hovers around 29 degrees. We follow the beautiful Guadiana, the river that winds its way along the border with Spain. Several sailing yachts lie moored to buoys in the water. They have travelled an astonishing 78 kilometres upriver from the sea to reach this quiet spot, where they can stay free of charge — far from the bustle of the coast
‘The Guadiana is the lifeline of this region,’ Ana from Almargem explains. ‘For centuries, it has connected the inland areas with the Atlantic Ocean.’
The landscape looks surprisingly green, even though it’s not long after the dry summer. According to Ana, this is thanks to the clever planting of certain types of vegetation. ‘The pine trees and the non‑native reeds keep the area greener than you’d expect,’ she says.
The path climbs away from the river in wide loops, yet we regularly enjoy stunning viewpoints over the Guadiana. The landscape unfolds like a geological storybook before our eyes.
‘Here you find schist and greywacke, two types of rock typical of this region,’ Ana tells us. ‘They were once used to build houses and walls.’ The rocky ground reveals millions of years of geological history. Some stones sparkle in the bright sunlight like tiny treasures scattered along the trail.
As we continue walking, Ana from Almargem tells us more about the origins of the route. The Via Algarviana was created through a joint initiative by nature lovers and local communities. ‘We wanted to share the beauty of inland Algarve with the world,’ she says.
Maintaining the trail is an ongoing challenge for Almargem’s volunteers. They place the waymarks, keep the paths clear and work closely with local councils. ‘The route is becoming increasingly popular, especially among walkers seeking authenticity,’ Ana adds.
We ask about the experiences of other hikers. ‘Many people tell us that walking here feels therapeutic,’ she smiles. ‘The silence and the sense of being alone in the world really calm them.’
Not everyone appreciates that deep quiet equally, she admits. ‘Some find it almost too silent, but the villages and small towns along the way bring a good balance.’
Eventually the trail leads us to the tiny village of Afonso Vicente. Just before the village we pass the Menires de Lavajo, a group of prehistoric standing stones. They raise all sorts of questions — who placed them here, and why? As we walk on, we find ourselves imagining the people and rituals of that distant past.
Once in the village, we stumble upon an amusing scene: despite the tiny population, no fewer than two political parties are campaigning here. It’s the final day before the Portuguese elections, so flags and posters are everywhere.
Fortunately, the atmosphere is relaxed. The politicians are certainly not at each other’s throats. The artificially composed campaign music, however, is less charming, so we decide to leave the village centre quickly.
Barely 300 metres further along the sandy track, a surprise awaits us. In the shade of a small grove, Rui Romba from Quimeras Sortidas has prepared a picnic. We enjoy a feast of organic, delicious local produce.
There are figs, cheeses, cured meats, fruit and wonderfully fresh bread. ‘You must try the migas,’ Ana insists enthusiastically. ‘It’s a traditional Algarve dish made from old bread mixed with water, garlic and olive oil.’
The migas is indeed delicious, as is the combination of tomato and scrambled egg. The flavours are intense and authentic — a perfect reflection of the local cuisine. ‘These dishes tell the story of the region,’ Ana explains. ‘They show how people here have created wonderful meals from simple ingredients for generations.’
After eating far too well, we walk back to the village, where one of the Anas has left her car to drive us back to Alcoutim. On the way, we take one last good look around to absorb all the impressions.
What a fantastic walk — and what a culinary finale. We’ve discovered not only the beautiful nature and unique landscape, but also the warmth of the local people. Our first encounter with the Via Algarviana quite literally leaves us wanting more.
It’s another bright, warm day. At exactly 9 a.m., our guide Joana is waiting for us. We drive to the tiny village of Furnazinhas, the end of stage 2 and the start of stage 3 of the Via Algarviana — and also the start and finish of today’s circular walk.
During the drive we enjoy the rolling landscape around us. There’s also time for a more personal introduction. Joana was born and raised in Lisbon and even lived in Amsterdam for a few years. But she lost her heart to the Algarve. Her passion for the region is infectious and makes us even more excited for what lies ahead.
Furnazinhas is a tiny village with whitewashed houses and narrow, picturesque lanes. It radiates peace and authenticity — typical of this region. On the way to the start of the walk, we chat with an elderly woman who greets us warmly. Moments later her son joins us, an architect from Faro. In remarkably good English he tells us he helped give the village a facelift, improving the public spaces, especially the pavements in the pedestrian streets and several house façades.
He also worked with hunters and residents on an educational visitor centre about the region. Inside are photos of wild animals such as boar, hares and partridges. The centre also serves as a meeting place and is used for village celebrations. His mother is particularly proud of a bench they built together — a place where villagers gather at the end of the day to talk about life, or sometimes simply about nothing at all.
The architect is clearly the youngest person in the village — a trend seen across much of southern Europe, where young people move to the cities in search of work. Rural villages are ageing rapidly. This was one of the reasons the long‑distance trail was created: to bring more visitors to the countryside and help preserve its authentic culture.
In the village we see large information boards explaining stage 3 of the Via Algarviana and our circular walk. Today we follow the red‑and‑yellow waymarks, rather than the red‑and‑white GR‑13 markers we followed yesterday.
We begin on a dry grassy path bordered by stone walls. While Ana was the expert on rocks and flora during our previous walk, Joana shines in her knowledge of fauna — especially birds.
‘This circular walk is home to more than 200 bird species,’ Joana tells us. She can even identify rare birds by their calls. The landscape is drier and rougher than yesterday, but no less beautiful.
What strikes us most are the winding tracks that weave through the hilly terrain. These winding roads give the route a charming, natural rhythm.
We reach an overgrown turn‑off leading to an old copper mine. Sadly, it recently collapsed, Joana explains. Still, we decide to take a look, but the path is so overgrown that after a hundred metres we turn back. With our bare legs, pushing through thorny bushes and cacti doesn’t seem wise.
Soon afterwards, the long, meandering reservoir appears in the distance. The water glistens in the sun, a striking contrast to the dry landscape. Along the way, Joana points out a shrub buzzing with bees, their legs heavy with nectar. A few beehives stand nearby, though the beekeeper is nowhere to be seen.
Two fishermen stand by the water, well apart from each other. We chat with one of them. He tells us he has already caught quite a few fish. For him it’s not just about the sport — it’s also about the food, that much is clear.
After the reservoir, the path begins a gentle climb to the highest point of the walk. We’re so absorbed in conversation that we hardly notice the ascent. Before we know it, we’re at the top.
A striking concrete pillar with black and white bands stands here — a trig point once used for surveying and navigation. From this spot we enjoy sweeping views of the landscape, and in the distance we can already see Furnazinhas.
We descend slowly, passing walled fields where livestock was once gathered at night for protection from predators. Shortly afterwards we reach the car again. Our walk is sadly over. At just over 8.5 kilometres, it wasn’t long, but it was certainly beautiful — one to treasure.
Our trip has come to an end, but we look back with great pleasure on our first encounter with the Via Algarviana. What stays with us most is the wonderful balance between unspoilt nature and vibrant culture that makes this route so special. The silence and space, combined with charming villages and surprising landscapes, create a walking experience that truly leaves an impression. We already feel connected to this place and can’t wait to explore more stages and dive deeper into this remarkable long‑distance trail.
Stage 1 of the Via Algarviana starts in Alcoutim, where you’ll find several small hotels, guesthouses, and B&Bs. This village is a popular place to stay before the walk. The end of stage 1 is near Balurcos, a rural area where the only accommodation is currently closed. However, there are places to stay a few kilometres before the end of the stage, such as in Corte da Seda. This allows you to shorten stage 1 slightly and add those kilometres to the next day, making it shorter.
Another option is to stay two nights in Alcoutim (the start of stage 1) or in Furnazinhas (the end of stage 2). Both places offer sufficient accommodation. The most practical choice is to stay two nights in one of these villages. The hotel in Alcoutim (such as Hotel D’Alcoutim, where we enjoyed several nights) can arrange a taxi service if needed. Other local accommodations can also help you book a taxi in advance. Additionally, you can use the transport partners of Almargem, the organisation behind the Via Algarviana.
Furnazinhas, the start and end point of the PR9 CTM circular walk, is a tiny village with just one accommodation option: Casa das Furnazinhas. Nearby, there is also the guesthouse Varandas do Vale Furnazinhas, which offers comfortable rooms and facilities. For a wider selection, you can look to the nearby towns of Castro Marim and Vila Real de Santo António, about 10-15 kilometres away. It’s wise to arrange transport in advance, as taxis and Uber are usually not available in this rural area.
In Alcoutim, the start of stage 1, there are plenty of places to eat and drink before or after your walk. In Afonso Vicente, there are no food or drink facilities, so make sure to bring enough water and snacks. The end of stage 1, Balurcos, is a small hamlet without any catering options.
On the PR9 CTM circular route in Furnazinhas, there is the pension Casa das Furnazinhas, but it does not offer meals. It’s therefore advisable to bring your own food and drink. The guesthouse Varandas do Vale Furnazinhas does provide meals.
For both routes, you can also arrange a picnic, for example through Quimeras Sortidas, which supplies fresh local products.
Yes, it is definitely possible to walk both stage 1 of the Via Algarviana and the PR9 CTM circular walk with a guide. This can be arranged, among others, through Loulé Rural, a certified partner of the Via Algarviana. We had the pleasure of doing the circular walk with Joana from Loulé Rural and highly recommend her.
Stage 1 is about 24 kilometres and typically takes 6 to 7 hours. The PR9 CTM is a circular walk of approximately 8.5 kilometres and takes 2.5 to 3 hours.
The PR9 CTM is suitable for beginners. Stage 1 is longer and can be more challenging but is manageable with a good level of fitness.
It’s wise to bring enough water yourself, as there are limited opportunities to refill along the route.
Alcoutim is accessible by car, with parking available at the start point. Furnazinhas is smaller and best reached by car or via an organised tour.
The Alcoutim Walking Festival, officially known as “Caminheiros” or “Festival de Caminhadas de Alcoutim,” is an annual walking event held in the border region of Alcoutim (Portugal) and Sanlúcar de Guadiana (Spain). The next edition is scheduled for 13-15 March 2026.
Activities:
Cultural aspects:
Practical information:
The festival offers an authentic Algarve experience where visitors can enjoy the peaceful landscape, local gastronomy, and rich cultural history of this unique border region.