After our city tour through Punda and Scharloo, we couldn’t wait to discover two other districts of Willemstad. Otrobanda and Pietermaai are like different worlds within the same city – each with its own character, colours, and stories. With camera at the ready, we crossed the iconic Queen Emma Bridge to the lively Otrobanda. The sun-drenched streets full of street art and historic buildings took us on a journey through time. In the stylish Pietermaai, we discovered how this once dilapidated district has been transformed into the hippest part of the city. Between pastel-coloured facades and trendy restaurants, the authentic Curaçao came to life. These neighbourhoods showed us a new perspective on our beloved island.
We begin our walk today on the other side of Sint Anna Bay in the Otrobanda district. Just as during the city tour through Punda and Scharloo, Tirzah is our guide who shows us all the hidden gems. Otrobanda literally means “the other side”, and that’s absolutely true. The atmosphere here differs completely from Punda, which makes our journey of discovery even more fascinating.
We arranged to meet Tirzah at Bario Food Yard, a vibrant urban food court in the heart of Otrobanda. The atmosphere here is immediately warm and welcoming, with a beautiful terrace full of plants. Bario is more than just a restaurant – it’s a meeting place where local culture and delicious food come together. Bario’s concept is “Urban Eats & Artsy Vibes”, and that’s exactly what we experience. The dishes are inspired by the island’s culinary heritage but with a modern twist. We have a refreshing drink before starting our walk.
From Bario, we walk past various information boards of The Hidden Green Movement. This movement is committed to local food production and sustainability in Curaçao. Tirzah enthusiastically tells us about this special initiative that is taking more and more shape on the island.
A highlight is Hòfinan Ser’i Otrobanda, a community garden that has even featured in Dutch media. The garden is in the top 100 sustainable projects, which is a remarkable achievement. We see how local residents grow vegetables and herbs together in the middle of the neighbourhood.
The Hidden Green Movement emphasises the importance of buying locally and supporting Curaçaoan farmers. The information boards tell us about local seasonal products and tips for home vegetable gardens. The green oases in the district form a beautiful contrast with the colourful buildings.
After a short walk, we reach Kura Hulanda Village, a beautifully restored historic area in Otrobanda. The history of this place dates back to 1707 and is closely connected to the colonial past. The buildings have been carefully restored and have retained their authentic charm.
The area was once run-down but is now a UNESCO World Heritage site with a special atmosphere. We stroll along the cobblestone streets and admire the colonial architecture. Each building tells a story about Curaçao’s rich past and cultural diversity.
Kura Hulanda Village is now a lovely place full of boutique shops, art galleries, and the nicest eateries. We saunter past colourful shop windows with handmade jewellery, local art, and unique fashion. The shops reflect the soul of Curaçao with products that celebrate the island culture.
From Kura Hulanda, we walk through unfamiliar streets where we encounter a lot of impressive street art. Large colourful murals adorn the facades and tell stories about the island and its inhabitants. Some images are so lifelike that we have to look twice to determine whether we’re dealing with a painting or a photograph.
We find Otrobanda incredibly beautifully renovated and share this with Tirzah. She proudly tells us that this is due to the Kaya Kaya Movement, an initiative of local entrepreneurs. This project began in 2018 and has transformed the district through art and community spirit. The residents themselves took up brushes and paint to make their neighbourhood colourful. The result is stunning: lively streets full of artworks that celebrate the identity of Otrobanda. We clearly see how art can strengthen and renew a community.
On the way, we pass a woman selling homemade ice cream from her home. Tirzah explains that due to health problems, she could no longer do her old job. Now she makes different flavours of ice cream according to traditional recipes, and it’s a great success.
We can’t resist the temptation and try her ice creams. The flavours are surprising and intense, not like the factory ice cream we’re used to. This is truly artisanal work made with love.
Our guide takes us to a special place where she often came as a teenager. It’s a quiet location near the Juliana Bridge that tourists rarely discover. From here, we have a beautiful view of Sint Anna Bay and the colourful houses of Punda.
Next to the viewpoint is a special statue of a large, seated woman. This is one of the famous “Mama” statues by artist Hortence Brouwn. The imposing sculpture symbolises the strength and warmth of Curaçaoan women. Brouwn’s Mamas are more than just statues; they celebrate the body-positive aspect of Curaçaoan culture. At two metres tall, this Mama serenely looks out over the bay, like a patron saint over the island.
At the end of our walk, we pass through several beautifully painted streets. The murals are stunning – some are so realistic they look like photographs. The streets themselves are also painted in vibrant patterns and colours. We see the result of the Kaya Kaya project in full glory. Artists from home and abroad have left their mark here, together with the local community. The art tells stories about Curaçao’s history, culture, and daily life.
We could wander here for hours among all the artworks, but it’s time for another stop. Nevertheless, we quickly take some photos of the colourful staircases and painted facades that make Otrobanda so special.
After our extensive walk, it’s time for a drink at Netto Bar, the oldest bar in Curaçao. This authentic place breathes history and local culture. Here we taste the famous green rum, a house speciality. The atmosphere in Netto Bar is cosy and casual, with locals and tourists enjoying together.
After a few refreshing drinks and pleasant conversations, we get hungry. Fortunately, Kam Yung restaurant is nearby. Here we get a delicious meal that we eat later in our apartment. The food is simple but incredibly flavourful, a perfect end to our day. You certainly don’t always have to go to an expensive restaurant on Curaçao to eat well!
Just like during our previous two holidays in Curaçao, we’re staying in the Pietermaai district again. We already know the neighbourhood quite well and don’t expect to discover much new. But Tirzah offers to guide us around, so why not? Perhaps she’ll surprise us with unknown spots.
From our apartment, we walk through narrow side streets to the main road of Pietermaai. The history of this district is fascinating and dates back to the 18th century. Tirzah tells us that Pietermaai was once a prosperous suburb for wealthy merchants and plantation owners. The district owes its name to priest Pedro (Pieter) Maij, who built a chapel here in 1674. In the 19th century, Pietermaai experienced its heyday with beautiful town villas and mansions in pastel colours. But after the economic decline, the district fell into disrepair and even became notorious. I personally remember Pietermaai from the late ’90s when the district had a very bad reputation. There were abandoned buildings and many drug addicts.
The renaissance of Pietermaai began around 2000, when investors saw the potential of the historic architecture. Entrepreneurs began renovating the dilapidated monuments and transforming them into boutique hotels and restaurants. The transformation is truly impressive and still ongoing.
We turn onto Kaya Wilson Godett where Tirzah points out an impressive old manor house. This monumental building is currently being transformed into the luxurious Pen Resort but has a colourful past. It was once a busy brothel, Tirzah whispers to us. The Pen Resort project is one of the largest restorations in the district. The developers are preserving the historic character whilst creating luxury accommodations.
As we walk through Penstraat, our guide points out the transformation that has taken place here. Ten years ago, there were still dilapidated buildings; now there are hip cafés and restaurants. Tirzah seems to know the story behind each restaurant. She tells how an Amsterdam couple fell in love with a ruin and now run a star-worthy bistro. Or how a local chef returned after years of working in Europe to open his dream restaurant.
We notice how many international influences come together here. All with respect for local ingredients and traditions but with a modern twist. The terraces are invitingly furnished everywhere, with atmospheric lighting and comfortable seating. The cool sea breeze makes it pleasant to linger, even on the warmest days.
We also visit two side streets off Penstraat: Loostraat and Lombokstraat. These turn out to be culinary hotspots where locals and tourists come together. Here beats the gastronomic heart of the new Pietermaai. The diversity is impressive. Tirzah knows the owners by name and shares stories about their culinary journeys. Her enthusiasm is contagious, and our stomachs start to growl.
As we continue walking, we see the creative energy flowing through Pietermaai. For instance, in addition to hotels, many restaurants have opened in beautifully restored old buildings. Like MosaCaña Bar & Kitchen on Penstraat, housed in a building with authentic details. The upscale cocktail bar Ochenta and the colourful Tiki Loco are also housed in historic buildings with character. The same applies to Mundo Bizarro, which is located right near our apartment.
Tirzah emphasises the sense of community behind the renaissance of Pietermaai. Entrepreneurs work together to organise events and keep the district lively. From live music evenings to art markets, there’s always something happening.
At the end of our walk, we have to agree with our guide. Although we thought we already knew Pietermaai well, we’ve discovered a whole new side today. The gastronomic environment turns out to be much more extensive than we ever suspected.
We’ve added at least five new restaurants to our must-visit list. Pietermaai turns out to be a true paradise for gourmets. Tirzah’s knowledge of the local culinary landscape is impressive. Her descriptions have literally made our mouths water. We conclude our tour with a reservation at one of her recommendations.
Willemstad consists of both historic and modern districts. The city has grown over the centuries from the first Dutch trading settlement in 1634.
The historic core of Willemstad (UNESCO World Heritage) consists of four main districts:
Willemstad offers a wealth of attractions that reflect the rich history and culture of Curaçao. Here are some of the main attractions:
Historic districts:
Iconic attractions:
Museums:
Markets:
Most attractions are within walking distance of each other in the historic centre. The main attractions can therefore be visited in a full day. If you want to go to other districts, it’s best to travel with your rental car or an official taxi.
Customised tours
If you want a personal experience with full attention to your specific interests, then a customised tour is the best choice. For our city tour through Willemstad, we had Tirzah Statia as a guide. She offers personalised city tours through Willemstad where you can determine the sights, duration, and pace yourself. Her expertise as a local guide ensures an authentic and in-depth experience of the culture and history of Willemstad.
Otrobanda tours
Pietermaai Tours:
Other options:
Most tours can be booked online via the providers’ websites or through platforms such as GetYourGuide or Tripadvisor. For the PocketGuide tours, you need to download the app and purchase the tour within it.
Both districts are known for their lively atmosphere, with a mix of local and international cuisines. Pietermaai has especially become known as the hippest and most culinary district of Willemstad, whilst Otrobanda offers a more authentic Curaçaoan atmosphere with many local flavours.
Otrobanda
Some recommendations in Otrobanda are:
Special mentions in Otrobanda:
Pietermaai
Pietermaai is bursting with super nice and high-quality restaurants, cafés, and bars. This makes it an enormous challenge even for us to choose where we want to eat and drink. Nevertheless, we venture an attempt to highlight some gems.
Located on or near the main street Pietermaai:
On or near Penstraat:
| TIP: Fancy a culinary experience that you truly won't find anywhere else on Curaçao? At Vittle Art, a unique 'storytelling dining' experience awaits with an organic 5-course menu, entirely prepared with ingredients from their own soil. The dishes tell the story of generations of Curaçaoan kitchen tradition, enriched with indigenous influences and served with love. Come by taxi - this hidden gem is difficult to find, and the delightful wine pairings don't encourage driving!
Vittle Art may not be located in Otrobanda or Pietermaai, but it's a must for every bon vivant. |
At the invitation of the Curaçao Tourist Board, we made this city tour through Otrobanda and Pietermaai in Willemstad. The content of this blog has been compiled independently and objectively based on our own impressions.