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Caribbean city tour through Willemstad – Punda and Scharloo

Caribbean city tour through Willemstad – Punda and Scharloo

Caribbean city tour through Willemstad – Punda and Scharloo

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We thought we knew Curaçao inside out. Several decades ago, I lived there for a couple of years. Since then, we have regularly returned for the wonderful climate and the Caribbean island feeling. However, we only truly got to know Willemstad during our last visit. We met Tirzah, a Curaçaoan native who knows her city like no other. She showed us her favourite places in this colourful city. We tasted local dishes in restaurants where only islanders dine. And heard stories about buildings we had previously passed without a second thought. We discovered a new side of Willemstad and locked the city in our hearts forever.

On a discovery city tour through Willemstad with Tirzah

At the appointed time, we leave our apartment in the atmospheric Pietermaai district. “Bon dia, dushi!” (good morning, sweethearts), we hear someone call. It’s Tirzah, our cheerful and energetic guide for the coming days. “This morning I’ll take you through the Punda and Scharloo districts,” she explains. “We’ll do the other districts of Pietermaai and Otrobanda later. The city has too much to offer to discover in just one morning!”

Punda: Starting point of our city tour through Willemstad

We begin our walk at the Fort Square near the stately governor’s palace. Tirzah tells us with infectious enthusiasm about the history of Punda. This oldest part of Willemstad was founded in 1634 when the Dutch built Fort Amsterdam here. The governor’s palace dates from 1732 and originally served as the residence for the director of the West India Company. Today, it is the official residence of the governor of Curaçao.

We feel the warm sun on our skin as our guide takes us towards the Handelskade. We pass the floating Queen Emma Bridge, which has connected Punda with the Otrobanda district since 1888. Before turning into Breedestraat, we admire the particularly colourful buildings along the Handelskade. It’s the iconic cityscape you often see in photographs. “Since the early 19th century, the houses here have had bright colours,” Tirzah tells us. “The original white buildings combined with the bright sunlight gave the governor of the time headaches. For that reason, he ordered the facades to be painted in different colours.”

Discovering art

We then turn into Breedestraat, once the main shopping street of Willemstad. This street leads to the charming Wilhelminaplein. From here, our guide leads us through narrow streets that we would never find on our own. In the Windstraat, we briefly duck into Aldemar Lourens’ art gallery. Amidst the stunning, particularly colourful paintings by local artists only, we see unique creations made from calabashes. The artist has transformed the calabash into plant pots and even lamps. Aldemar explains that this originally African fruit thrives on Curaçaoan soil.

We continue walking and pass several murals. Tirzah knows them all and shares the most beautiful stories about them. For instance, there’s a mural of a little boy with angel wings, “Urban Angels”. It’s the first and largest mural on Curaçao. The boy always seems to be looking at you, from whatever angle you view the mural. People who used to urinate in public felt caught by his gaze. Since then, there is little to no public urination in that spot.

Next, we arrive at Galeria Jean Girigori, where the famous artist herself is working in the alley. Jean welcomes us warmly and talks about her sources of inspiration: the strong women of Curaçao. Her expressive paintings show the soul of the island in vibrant colours.

Mikvé Israël-Emanuel Synagogue

After this, we visit Signs and Crafts, a small shop and workshop. Here, Shirley Wimpel creates the loveliest souvenirs completely tailored to your wishes. We immediately order several pieces of driftwood that Shirley will transform into Caribbean paintings over the coming day. We’re curious to see the result! Once outside, we walk towards our next destination: the Anna Bay rum distillery. Along the way, we pass many more stunning murals, each more beautiful than the last.

We walk past the Mikvé Israël-Emanuel Synagogue from 1732. Tirzah tells us that it is the oldest synagogue still in use in the Western Hemisphere. The Jewish history on Curaçao dates back to 1634. That year, the first Jewish immigrant, Samuel Cohen, arrived as an interpreter on a Dutch ship. The Sephardic Jewish community grew to become the most prosperous on the American continent. The Jewish population played a crucial role in the trade and economy of the island. Today, people come from far and wide specifically to visit this synagogue.

Tasting and enjoying

A little later, we enter the Anna Bay rum distillery, where we taste different types of rum. We discover that rum has been produced here since the 18th century. As we take in the cosy distillery, which is set up as a museum, an English-speaking couple comes in. They’re glad they found the place, as a visit was strongly recommended to them. Shortly afterwards, they too are sipping the delicious varieties of rum.

We continue our tour through Punda along the Sha Caprileskade. Here lies a colourful collection of Venezuelan boats moored along the quay. This is the famous “floating market” that has been here for more than a hundred years. The skippers sell fresh vegetables, fruit, and fish directly from their boats. Everything looks irresistibly fresh and appetising. We can’t resist the temptation and buy a juicy pineapple and a few ripe mangoes. Our guide seems to be on good terms with the vendors. In fluent Spanish with an unmistakable Venezuelan accent, she chats with some cheerful skippers.

At the end of our walk, Tirzah points us to the best place for fresh pastries. These local pastries with meat or cheese filling taste heavenly after our long walk. As a finale, we visit Plasa Bieu, the old market hall where locals come for authentic dishes. Among the Curaçaoans, we see quite a few tourists enjoying kabritu stoba (stewed goat) and funchi (corn porridge). Unfortunately, we don’t join them at the table, because the chic Scharloo district is calling impatiently!

Artistic Scharloo during the city tour of Willemstad

Because we’ve already walked quite a bit, Tirzah decides to drive us around. Delightfully with the windows open, we tour through the Scharloo district. She tells us that Scharloo began in the mid-17th century as a plantation of the West India Company. However, the soil proved infertile and was soon abandoned. From 1870, wealthy Jewish merchants built luxurious villas there. This turned Scharloo into a prosperous neighbourhood. After a hurricane in 1877 that destroyed large parts of the Pietermaai district, the growth of Scharloo accelerated. Soon after, the district became the wealthiest part of the city.

Around 1960, Scharloo began to decline when many residents moved to the suburbs. In 1999, the district was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. At the beginning of the 21st century, many villas were renovated and converted into offices or government buildings. Nowadays, Scharloo is also known for its beautiful murals. Like those of the local artist Francis Sling. We now make our first stop at his residence.

Francis Sling is known for his impressive murals at various locations in Willemstad. We find the building itself to look particularly artistic. Below his home is his studio, known as the “ArtCave”. Here you can admire his fascinating artworks up close. Admission to the studio is free. If you want to walk around and take photos, a small contribution is requested.

From the maritime museum to the Wedding Cake

We resume the tour and arrive at the Curaçao Maritime Museum. This museum presents 500 years of maritime history of Curaçao. It contains unique collections of authentic sea charts, ship models, and navigation equipment. Next, we pass various murals that add colour to the district – works by many artists who have transformed Scharloo into an open-air gallery.

Then we drive through the Bargestraat, where five workers’ homes were restored. These monumental buildings are now also equipped with modern amenities. Here too, our guide seems to know many people. She chats with several Curaçaoans, frequently using the word “dushi”. She explains to us that “dushi” means much more than just “sweetheart”. It’s a versatile word that can also mean “sweet”, “delicious”, and everything that is good and fantastic – a perfect example of how language reflects the culture and mentality of a people.

Tirzah tells us that this neighbourhood used to be dilapidated and unsafe. But that a positive change is underway. This is thanks to the renovation projects and the addition of artworks. These days, even interesting guided cultural walks are organised through the district, such as by Hello Skalo. According to Tirzah, this demonstrates how the perception of the area has improved. And how the cultural heritage is increasingly being appreciated.

We drive through the main street Scharlooweg. This street is characterised by large, luxurious villas built in Spanish style around a patio. We pause briefly at the most famous building, namely the “Bolo di Batrei” (Wedding Cake). This beautiful green building was built in 1916-1917 as a wedding gift. It has a striking rococo façade and is known for its beautiful ceiling paintings in the interior. With a bit of imagination, the shape of the building (each floor narrower than the floor below) indeed looks like a wedding cake.

End of part 1 of our city tour through Willemstad

With cool Amstel Bright and Polar beers, we toast on a terrace somewhere in Punda to this unforgettable day! We smile at memories of colourful facades and cheerful murals in Willemstad. Our guide showed us hidden art treasures and told fascinating stories about historic buildings. We tasted delicious rum at the Anna Bay distillery and bought fresh mangoes from Venezuelan boats. In Scharloo, we admired Francis Sling’s ArtCave and the beautiful Wedding Cake with its rococo façade.

We will continue our city tour through Willemstad later during our stay in Curaçao. First, we’ll explore the beautiful golf courses of the island and climb the iconic Christoffel Mountain. After that, our enthusiastic Tirzah will show her favourite spots in the Pietermaai and Otrobanda districts. We can hardly wait!

What you want to know before your city tour through Willemstad

Where is Willemstad located on Curaçao?

Willemstad is the capital and largest city of Curaçao. The city is located on the south coast of the island. Willemstad consists of four historic districts:

  • Punda and Otrobanda: these districts are separated by the Sint Anna Bay
  • Scharloo and Pietermaai: located on either side of the smaller Waaigat
Which districts make up Willemstad?

Willemstad consists of both historic and modern districts. The city has grown over the centuries from the first Dutch trading settlement in 1634.

 

The historic core of Willemstad (UNESCO World Heritage) consists of four main districts:

  • Punda - the oldest part, literally “the point”, the original centre
  • Otrobanda - “the other side”, located on the western bank of the Sint Anna Bay
  • Scharloo - former distinguished residential district with colonial villas
  • Pietermaai - historic district east of Punda
What is there to see in Willemstad?

Willemstad offers a wealth of attractions that reflect the rich history and culture of Curaçao. Here are some of the main attractions:

 

Historic districts:

  • Punda - The oldest part of the city with colourful architecture, narrow streets, and historic buildings
  • Otrobanda - On the other side of the Sint Anna Bay, with its own character and street art
  • Scharloo - Former distinguished residential district with colonial villas and beautiful murals
  • Pietermaai - Atmospheric district with coloured houses, popular with photographers

Iconic attractions:

  • Handelskade - The famous row of brightly coloured Dutch colonial buildings along the water
  • Queen Emma Bridge (Pontjesbrug) - The world’s only floating wooden pontoon bridge that swings open to let ships pass
  • Fort Amsterdam - The oldest fort in Curaçao from 1635
  • Wilhelminaplein - Central square surrounded by historic buildings and cosy cafés

Museums:

  • Kura Hulanda Museum - About the history of slavery
  • Curaçao Museum - History of the island
  • Maritime Museum - Tells the story of 500 years of maritime history

Markets:

  • Floating Market - Where Venezuelan traders sell fresh produce
  • Plasa Bieu (old market) - Authentic food market where local cooks prepare traditional Curaçaoan dishes in a lively, no-nonsense environment.
Is Willemstad safe?

Decades ago, Curaçao in general was not always very safe. In the past ten years, there have been particularly many positive changes. For instance, during our last visit, we felt safe everywhere, both during the day and in the evening!

 

It’s not for nothing that the Ministry of Foreign Affairs gives Curaçao the colour code green. This colour means that it is safe to travel there. However, there are a few points of attention:

 

Safe areas:

  • The tourist areas such as Punda, Otrobanda, and Pietermaai are generally safe. This is especially true during the day but in our experience also in the evening
  • Tourist beaches and attractions are well secured.

Areas to avoid:

  • Some newer districts in Willemstad are not recommended for tourists. Such as the Souax district. Additionally, Seru Fortuna is mentioned in the list. However, in this area, there are currently good developments underway to renovate the district.
  • The district behind Mambo Beach (Koraal Specht) is specifically mentioned as an area to avoid.
How do I get around in Willemstad?

Most attractions are within walking distance of each other in the historic centre. The main attractions can therefore be visited in a full day. If you want to go to other districts, it’s best to travel with your rental car or an official taxi.

Where can I book a city tour through Willemstad?

Customised tours

If you want a personal experience with full attention to your specific interests, then a customised tour is the best choice. During our city tour through Willemstad, we had Tirzah Statia as a guide. She offers personalised city tours through Willemstad where you can determine the attractions, duration, and pace yourself. Her expertise as a local guide ensures an authentic and in-depth experience of the culture and history of Willemstad.

 

Thematic tours (shorter duration tours)

For shorter, structured tours, there are various providers:

  • Dundu Tours - “The best walking tour Willemstad” offers a walking tour of 90-120 minutes for $28 per person with excellent reviews. This tour is ideal for a first introduction to the city and is led by local certified guides.
  • TukTuk City Tour - A fun and quick way to explore Willemstad in a characteristic TukTuk, focusing on Punda.
  • Amstar DMC - Offers a complete city tour with visits to the colourful “Old Town”, Fort Beekenburg (a Dutch military stronghold from 1730), and the Landhouse Chobolobo Distillery. This tour includes hotel pick-up and drop-off service.

Most tours can be booked online via websites such as GetYourGuide or Tripadvisor. Or directly with the providers.

Can I also take a city walk without a guide?

Yes, you can certainly take a city walk through Willemstad without a guide! Willemstad is perfect for independent exploration.

 

There is an extensive self-guided walking route available that takes you along the most beautiful spots in Willemstad. This route starts in the Otrobanda district, then crosses the famous floating Queen Emma Bridge to the colourful Punda district, and ends in the lively Pietermaai. You can also find one via GPSmyCity. Furthermore, on the website of the Curaçao Tourist Board, you’ll find an interesting walk along the architectural gems in the historic centre.

 

As an alternative to a completely independent walk, you might also consider taking a Tuk Tuk tour at the beginning of your visit. This gives you a good overview of the city and some historical background, after which you can explore further on your own.

 

As mentioned, Willemstad is a city that is easy to explore. You can visit the historic districts of Otrobanda, Pietermaai, Punda, and Scharloo on your own. However, our personal preference is for a tour with a guide. With a local guide, you’ll get to places you wouldn’t easily find otherwise. Additionally, you’ll learn much more about the history and culture of the city.

Where can I enjoy some delicious food and drinks in Punda and Scharloo?

Some recommendations in Punda are:

  • BoHo6. Located in the heart of Punda, this stylish restaurant offers a mix of local and international dishes. Enjoy their fresh salads and gourmet sandwiches on the charming terrace overlooking the lively shopping streets. The perfect spot for lunch or a refreshing cocktail.
  • Plasa Bieu. An authentic food market in Punda where locals and tourists come together. Here you'll find six different local kitchens with open preparation. Try traditional dishes such as karni stoba (beef stew) or kadushi (cactus soup) for an affordable price in a vibrant atmosphere.
  • Roses Cafe Bar Restaurant. This cosy establishment in Punda serves delicious local and international dishes in a relaxed ambiance. Known for their fresh salads, sandwiches and local specialities. Perfectly situated for a break whilst exploring the colourful buildings in the town centre.

Some recommendations in Scharloo are:

  • Culture Deli Café. A pleasant café in Scharloo where you can enjoy local and international dishes in a relaxed atmosphere. Perfect for a light lunch or a coffee whilst exploring the historic buildings in this district.
  • aRoma. A charming Italian restaurant in historic Scharloo. Here you can enjoy authentic pizzas and pastas prepared with fresh ingredients. The combination of Caribbean hospitality and Italian flavours makes this a unique culinary experience in a beautifully renovated colonial building.
TIP: Fancy a culinary experience that you truly won't find anywhere else on Curaçao? At Vittle Art, a unique 'storytelling dining' experience awaits with an organic 5-course menu, entirely prepared with ingredients from their own soil. The dishes tell the story of generations of Curaçaoan kitchen tradition, enriched with indigenous influences and served with love. Come by taxi - this hidden gem is difficult to find, and the delightful wine pairings don't encourage driving!

 

Vittle Art may not be located in Punda or Scharloo, but it's a must for every bon vivant.

Who is Tirzah, our guide during the described city tour?

Our guide during the city tour through Willemstad is Tirzah Statia. Tirzah is a rather enthusiastic, cheerful, and energetic Curaçaoan who works as an official guide for, among others, the Curaçao Tourist Board. She was born and raised on the island but also spent considerable time in the Netherlands for study and work. Since she returned to Curaçao, she takes English-speaking, Spanish-speaking, and Dutch-speaking visitors on authentic tours through Willemstad. She is also happy to show other parts of the island.

 

Tirzah calls herself “IAMTIRZAH” on social media. On Instagram and TikTok, she presents herself as an island ambassador. Here she shows hidden spots and the vibrant culture to her followers worldwide. She organises popular e-bike tours through historic Willemstad. Tourists thus discover the colourful architecture in a sustainable way. They experience local traditions and the rich history directly. Her deep knowledge makes Tirzah indispensable for tourism on Curaçao. She connects visitors with the true soul of her birth island.

At the invitation of the Curaçao Tourist Board, we made this city tour through Punda and Scharloo in Willemstad. The content of this blog has been compiled independently and objectively based on our own impressions.

Hanno