France is full of stunning castles. Throughout the country, you come across one magnificent castle after another. We have previously visited Château Bazoches in the Morvan region. Now, from Cluny, we are heading to Château de Cormatin—by bike, specifically an e-bike. In the rolling landscape of southern Burgundy, a little pedal assistance certainly comes in handy.
Cluny is impressive and serious, a place of religious power and political significance. Cormatin promises something different: less austere, more elegant, embodying that quintessential French sense of enjoyment. Nestled among the hills of the Mâconnais, the castle suddenly appears before us. This is Château de Cormatin, located on the main street of the village that shares its name.
We first wander around the village of Cormatin itself. What a charming, typically Burgundian atmosphere it has. Time seems to slow down just a little here. We stroll past old stone houses and immediately discover quaint little shops full of curiosities. The shop windows of the brocantes are enticing, with stacks of old French postcards and vintage items, each seeming to tell its own story. It’s the perfect way to get into the mood.
Our stomachs start to rumble, so we look for a place to have lunch. We end up at Le Comptoir, a cosy bistro right on the main street. The place is packed—a good sign! The atmosphere is warm and lively, just as we hoped. What immediately stands out is the owner. He is running the show alone today, dashing between tables, taking orders, pouring wine, and serving dishes. Despite the busy scene, he is cheerful and chats with everyone. The food he serves is pure and honest, full of local specialties and bursting with flavour. What a wonderful and authentic spot this is. Here, we fuel up perfectly for our castle adventure.
Before marveling at all the golden splendour, we need to understand where it all began. The story of Cormatin is much older than the seventeenth-century castle we are about to see. Long ago, already in the Middle Ages, a sturdy fortress stood on this site. The Du Blé family, lords of Cormatin, had owned the land since the twelfth century. They were an important family in this part of Burgundy. That medieval fortress was a typical stronghold, built primarily to keep enemies out and protect the family. By the end of the sixteenth century, little remained of it due to war damage and destruction. It was time for something new and much grander.
This is where Antoine du Blé, Marquis of Huxelles, comes into the picture. He had amassed his fortune during the turbulent religious wars. After all the fighting, he wanted to show that he was settled. In 1606, he began building this immense castle. Times had changed: it was no longer just about defence but about prestige.
His son Jacques continued the work. Jacques was a clever young man who made a name for himself at the Paris court. He was a welcome guest and on good terms with Queen Marie de’ Medici, mother of Louis XIII. He wanted to impress his court friends and the queen herself. Therefore, he decided to decorate the family castle with all the splendour and luxury.
Miraculously, this castle survived the French Revolution. The clever owner managed to appease the revolutionaries with a few barrels of fine Burgundy wine. As a result, the magnificent interiors have been incredibly well preserved. Today, the castle remains privately owned, and fortunately, we are allowed to enjoy this spectacular heritage.
We park our bikes and walk up the driveway. The sun is shining, and the castle reflects beautifully in the water. Next to the castle, the impressive garden is also a sight to behold. We decide to explore it first.
The castle garden covers more than ten hectares. It has been carefully reconstructed according to the seventeenth-century design. The French style dominates, with straight lines, symmetry, and perfectly trimmed hedges. Here, man controls nature, just as Renaissance philosophy prescribes. We stroll through different parts of the garden, each with its own meaning. Behind the strict design lies symbolism, which we gradually uncover.
The parterre, with its colourful flowers and geometric patterns, represents paradise on earth. The designers were inspired by ancient Italian texts. The perfect order symbolises harmony between man and nature, an echo of the Garden of Eden.
The boxwood labyrinth is impressive and precisely trimmed. It symbolises the trials that humans must endure. We walk through it, lose our way for a moment, and find it again. The message is clear: salvation requires patience and guidance.
In the centre of the labyrinth stands an elevated pavilion, the Volière-Belvédère. This is the reward after the search below. We climb the spiral staircase. At the top, we look out over the garden and the castle. The sun and white clouds on the horizon complete the perfect picture. The view from this spot symbolises the peace and harmony that follow effort. At the top, we see intertwined hearts, symbols of connection and love. Even in the garden, people reflected on morality and meaning.
The sky gradually clouds over. A perfect moment to admire the castle’s interior. The stories of splendour and luxury prove to be true. These rooms stand out:
As soon as we step inside, it’s immediately apparent. A courtyard with arcades and a staircase that draws all attention. Not a narrow, dark stairwell, but an open space filled with light. The staircase is square with a huge void in the middle. Sunlight streams through the windows and plays with the arches and balustrades. The space is nearly nine metres wide and over twenty metres high.
Why so grand? Because this is the first thing visitors see. A staircase had to impress. Here, you immediately felt the family’s status. Jacques du Blé was inspired by the Palais du Luxembourg in Paris. This masterpiece was completed in just ten months. This staircase forms the transition between the austere exterior and the richly decorated interior.
We enter the gilded rooms and immediately understand their name. Everything shines, from floor to ceiling. The walls are covered with paintings, wood carvings, and gold leaf. Jacques du Blé wanted to impress the queen and did so with style. The colours are warm, and the details refined. The rooms are a beautiful example of French decorative art from that period. We walk through the series of rooms. Furniture, tapestries, and paintings fill the spaces. Everything breathes luxury and history. We see a world that still seems intact centuries later.
The marchioness’s bedroom feels more like a theatre than a place of rest. In the seventeenth century, this was not a private space. Guests were received here, conversations held, and decisions made. The marchioness lay in her bed, surrounded by silk and velvet, while the household freely came and went.
The ceiling is a work of art in itself, full of painted ornaments and symbols. The large fireplace mantel emphasises the wealth. It feels as if time has stood still here. We realise how public the life of the nobility was. Even the most intimate moments happened under the watchful eyes of others.
Next, we enter the smallest room, the Cabinet of Sainte-Cécile. This was the only place where the marchioness could retreat. Everything here is refined: wood carvings, paintings, gold leaf. The details are so precise it feels like standing inside a jewellery box. Flemish artists gave the room a soft, elegant appearance.
We look around and see a perfectly preserved work of art from the time of Marie de’ Medici. The ceilings tell mythological stories, the walls shine in gold and blue. Every corner demands attention. This small room radiates more wealth than many a large hall.
Next to the bedroom lies the Cabinet of Curiosities, the seventeenth-century version of a museum. The residents displayed their collection of unusual objects here. We see stuffed animals, exotic shells, scientific instruments—a mixture of nature, art, and curiosity.
This room was not just for showing off but also for knowledge and wonder. Visitors discussed science, religion, and humanity’s place in the world here. The transition from medieval mysticism to modern curiosity becomes tangible.
Would you like to visit Château de Cormatin and its gardens on your own? That is possible, but you can only visit a few rooms of the castle independently. To see all the beautiful rooms, you must join a guided tour, which lasts about an hour. The tour only covers the castle’s interior. The garden can be explored independently, and you may take as much time as you wish.
If this visit to Cormatin has left you enchanted by French castles, we have a perfect tip for the rest of your trip through this beautiful region. Château de Cormatin is part of the ‘Route des Châteaux en Bourgogne du Sud’—the Castles Route in southern Burgundy. This route connects seventeen magnificent castles and monumental houses in the Saône-et-Loire and Allier departments. From sturdy medieval forts to elegant Renaissance palaces, this route offers a wide variety of architectural styles and histories. With this route, you immerse yourself in Burgundy’s rich history. Ideal for lovers of historic architecture, gardens, and noble stories.
We have gained a wonderful impression of the lavish castle. It’s time to find our bikes again. On the way back, we choose the Voie Verte, a straight route following the track of a vanished railway line. We cycle through trees displaying beautiful autumn colours. The bike path is completely covered with leaves. We actually don’t need pedal assistance—the route is perfectly flat. Still, we switch to sport mode. The dark sky above looks threatening. Soon, the first drops fall, and gradually it starts raining harder. The trees shield us somewhat but not completely.
Just before Cluny, the weather clears up. Well-timed, as we leave the forest and cycle in the open air. Shortly after, we return our bikes to Bourgogne Découverte. With a head full of memories of a remarkable castle, we leave Cluny behind.
Château de Cormatin is located in southern Burgundy, in the commune of Cormatin. This village lies in the Saône-et-Loire department in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region.
The castle is accessible via the D152 from Cluny (approx. 16 km), the D981 and D152 from Tournus (approx. 25 km), and the D981 from Saint-Gengoux-le-National (approx. 9 km). It is also situated directly on the Voie Verte (cycle route), making it very easy to reach by bike.
The castle is exceptional due to its complete and perfectly preserved interior from the time of Louis XIII (early 17th century). The gilded apartments are particularly stunning.
The absolute highlights are the Gilded Rooms, the monumental staircase, the marchioness’s bedroom, and the refined Cabinet of Sainte-Cécile.
The garden is a reconstruction of a seventeenth-century French garden. The key sights are the large geometric parterre, the extensive boxwood labyrinth, and the Volière-Belvédère with its magnificent view.
The gardens, the western wing of the castle, and the orangery are freely accessible. The most beautiful rooms, including the gilded apartments, can only be visited with a guided tour. The tour lasts about an hour and is highly recommended.
Opening hours vary greatly depending on the season (high or low) and the day. It is essential to check the current times and days on the castle’s official website before your visit. Click here for the official Château de Cormatin webpage.
This is the ‘Route des Châteaux en Bourgogne du Sud,’ a tourist route connecting 17 historic castles and noble residences in southern Burgundy. Perfect for castle enthusiasts.
A recommended spot is the cosy bistro Le Comptoir, offering excellent food in a pleasant setting near the castle. Other good options include Chez l’Oncle Jules and La Table D’Ancelin.
There are few accommodation options in Cormatin itself. Well-rated places include the charming B&B Couleurs de la vie - Chambres d’Hôtes et Gîte and the hotel La Fleur de Lys.
In nearby Cluny, there are more options, which also gives you the chance to visit the magnificent Abbey of Cluny. Here are some top accommodation tips in Cluny:
This visit was made possible by Burgundy Tourism and Cluny Tourism. The content of this blog has been independently and objectively compiled based on our own impressions.